PeterK
Yoda
Offline
The apron was a little crooked because the tie-member that runs from inner fender to inner fender was cut my the PO. I found a tie-member on ebay about a year ago and it's one of only two that I've ever seen for sale. That's how it all began a couple of months ago.
Well, I fixed that and just completed fitting the apron back on yesterday (took 2 days to put the original parts back on and get them to fit properly!) using all new proper bolts. The PO had used 10mm bolts in all the 1/4-28 captured nuts and I had to re-tap every nut. Also had to fix the passenger lower front fender mount where the PO left out 2 of 3 bolts because he couldn't get it aligned correctly.
But since I removed it, I did a complete steering and suspension rebuild with ALL new parts:
-Inner and outer tie rod ends, silent blocs, ball joints, trunnions, poly upper fulcrum bushings, new lower fulcrum bushings, all parts blasted and powdercoated, all new grade 8 hardware. Major suspension kit.
-Blasted and powdercoated front bumper brackets.
-Replaced one front hub that had the inner race spun. New seals. Repacked Timken bearings.
-Replaced one front rebound bracket that was bent.
-Drained and refilled steering box with Hypoid 90 and with new gaskets.
-Stringed rear to front and set alignment +1/8" toe-in.
and ...
-New timing chain and tensioner and gasket. Powdercoated cover.
-Changed alternator bracket bolt setup - now simpler.
-Rebuilt the steering control head adding stainless steel stator tube from Macy's Garage and new control harness from British Wiring. Turn signals now self cancel!
-Stripped the exposed front frame to bare metal and painted with Eastwood extreme chassis paint.
-Installed front Koni SP1's.
-Powder coated the headlight buckets and installed new headlight harnesses from British Wiring.
-Added H4 Halogens and headlight relays. Added 3M headlight protector film.
-Added driving light relay for the new Wipac H3 driving lights.
-Changed out radiator with pressure tested core. Welded 12" fan brackets to support plates for electric pusher. Rewired fan circuit to push instead of pull - d'oh!
-Flipped thermostat housing around - it was upside down.
-Installed new Kevlar reinforced lower radiator hoses and SS down pipe. New clamps.
-Tried every combination of front hub and TR fan to get better cooling and still have clearance - nothing fit except the original anemic 4-blader. I ended up buying a BMW 2002 '69-'76 360mm red fan (Thanks for the tip Christian!); it REALLY throws a lot of air but I had to enlarge the mounting holes to fit the hub threads.
-Added an Addco front anti-sway bar.
-Installed front crank support (for original appearance - radiator hole is gone.
-Flitz'ed front grille. Changed out torn rubber boots on front indicator lights. Soldered new connections and replaced wiring tubing.
-Disassembled and buffed out the front bumper. Painted rear surfaces of chrome with SS paint. Replaced overrider gaskets.
-Added a badge bar and club badge.
-Added a correct vintage black british license plate.
Next ...
D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E-! ! ! ! ! !
Then recheck front bearings and all work, AND REPEAT ABOVE!
Phew
Well, I fixed that and just completed fitting the apron back on yesterday (took 2 days to put the original parts back on and get them to fit properly!) using all new proper bolts. The PO had used 10mm bolts in all the 1/4-28 captured nuts and I had to re-tap every nut. Also had to fix the passenger lower front fender mount where the PO left out 2 of 3 bolts because he couldn't get it aligned correctly.
But since I removed it, I did a complete steering and suspension rebuild with ALL new parts:
-Inner and outer tie rod ends, silent blocs, ball joints, trunnions, poly upper fulcrum bushings, new lower fulcrum bushings, all parts blasted and powdercoated, all new grade 8 hardware. Major suspension kit.
-Blasted and powdercoated front bumper brackets.
-Replaced one front hub that had the inner race spun. New seals. Repacked Timken bearings.
-Replaced one front rebound bracket that was bent.
-Drained and refilled steering box with Hypoid 90 and with new gaskets.
-Stringed rear to front and set alignment +1/8" toe-in.
and ...
-New timing chain and tensioner and gasket. Powdercoated cover.
-Changed alternator bracket bolt setup - now simpler.
-Rebuilt the steering control head adding stainless steel stator tube from Macy's Garage and new control harness from British Wiring. Turn signals now self cancel!
-Stripped the exposed front frame to bare metal and painted with Eastwood extreme chassis paint.
-Installed front Koni SP1's.
-Powder coated the headlight buckets and installed new headlight harnesses from British Wiring.
-Added H4 Halogens and headlight relays. Added 3M headlight protector film.
-Added driving light relay for the new Wipac H3 driving lights.
-Changed out radiator with pressure tested core. Welded 12" fan brackets to support plates for electric pusher. Rewired fan circuit to push instead of pull - d'oh!
-Flipped thermostat housing around - it was upside down.
-Installed new Kevlar reinforced lower radiator hoses and SS down pipe. New clamps.
-Tried every combination of front hub and TR fan to get better cooling and still have clearance - nothing fit except the original anemic 4-blader. I ended up buying a BMW 2002 '69-'76 360mm red fan (Thanks for the tip Christian!); it REALLY throws a lot of air but I had to enlarge the mounting holes to fit the hub threads.
-Added an Addco front anti-sway bar.
-Installed front crank support (for original appearance - radiator hole is gone.
-Flitz'ed front grille. Changed out torn rubber boots on front indicator lights. Soldered new connections and replaced wiring tubing.
-Disassembled and buffed out the front bumper. Painted rear surfaces of chrome with SS paint. Replaced overrider gaskets.
-Added a badge bar and club badge.
-Added a correct vintage black british license plate.
Next ...
D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E-! ! ! ! ! !
Then recheck front bearings and all work, AND REPEAT ABOVE!
Phew