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TR2/3/3A All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

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PeterK

PeterK

Yoda
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The apron was a little crooked because the tie-member that runs from inner fender to inner fender was cut my the PO. I found a tie-member on ebay about a year ago and it's one of only two that I've ever seen for sale. That's how it all began a couple of months ago.

Well, I fixed that and just completed fitting the apron back on yesterday (took 2 days to put the original parts back on and get them to fit properly!) using all new proper bolts. The PO had used 10mm bolts in all the 1/4-28 captured nuts and I had to re-tap every nut. Also had to fix the passenger lower front fender mount where the PO left out 2 of 3 bolts because he couldn't get it aligned correctly.

But since I removed it, I did a complete steering and suspension rebuild with ALL new parts:

-Inner and outer tie rod ends, silent blocs, ball joints, trunnions, poly upper fulcrum bushings, new lower fulcrum bushings, all parts blasted and powdercoated, all new grade 8 hardware. Major suspension kit.
-Blasted and powdercoated front bumper brackets.
-Replaced one front hub that had the inner race spun. New seals. Repacked Timken bearings.
-Replaced one front rebound bracket that was bent.
-Drained and refilled steering box with Hypoid 90 and with new gaskets.
-Stringed rear to front and set alignment +1/8" toe-in.

and ...
-New timing chain and tensioner and gasket. Powdercoated cover.
-Changed alternator bracket bolt setup - now simpler.
-Rebuilt the steering control head adding stainless steel stator tube from Macy's Garage and new control harness from British Wiring. Turn signals now self cancel!
-Stripped the exposed front frame to bare metal and painted with Eastwood extreme chassis paint.
-Installed front Koni SP1's.
-Powder coated the headlight buckets and installed new headlight harnesses from British Wiring.
-Added H4 Halogens and headlight relays. Added 3M headlight protector film.
-Added driving light relay for the new Wipac H3 driving lights.
-Changed out radiator with pressure tested core. Welded 12" fan brackets to support plates for electric pusher. Rewired fan circuit to push instead of pull - d'oh!
-Flipped thermostat housing around - it was upside down.
-Installed new Kevlar reinforced lower radiator hoses and SS down pipe. New clamps.
-Tried every combination of front hub and TR fan to get better cooling and still have clearance - nothing fit except the original anemic 4-blader. I ended up buying a BMW 2002 '69-'76 360mm red fan (Thanks for the tip Christian!); it REALLY throws a lot of air but I had to enlarge the mounting holes to fit the hub threads.
-Added an Addco front anti-sway bar.
-Installed front crank support (for original appearance - radiator hole is gone.
-Flitz'ed front grille. Changed out torn rubber boots on front indicator lights. Soldered new connections and replaced wiring tubing.
-Disassembled and buffed out the front bumper. Painted rear surfaces of chrome with SS paint. Replaced overrider gaskets.
-Added a badge bar and club badge.
-Added a correct vintage black british license plate.

Next ...

D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E+++D-R-I-V-E-! ! ! ! ! !

Then recheck front bearings and all work, AND REPEAT ABOVE!

Phew
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Aloha Peter,

It is amazing how just straightening something out can sprout into something that just continues to grow. But, since every thing was exposed best to do then. Now get out there and drive the car, it needs the exercise.

Does the 360mm BMW fan fit without modification? I replaced "the original anemic 4-blader" with a 14 inch polymer flex-i-fan from NAPA, however I needed to cut it down to 13 inch diameter to clear everything (I used the original hub extension). With a better fan installed, I have not had to use my electric pusher fan.

Enjoy your car.
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Is that what they call Shipfitters Disease?
How long did all that take you?
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Nice job Peter !!

You did a complete steering and suspension rebuild with
ALL new parts:!!! WOW!! A mighty task

Quick, while everything is still fresh in your mind, Hop a
flight to San Juan and do the exact same process upon the
Crypt Car. Front suspension and steering need a lot of help.

Enjoy driving your car!

d
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Wow, what a job. How does it drive now? Pictures?
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Peter - Next time you have the grille out, cut a piece of 1/16" thick black rubber about 1.5" by 2" and glue it onto the fins of the radiator where the crank hole should be. Then it will "look" right and a TRA judge may think that you have the crank hole through the rad.
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Way to go! I thought I was inflicted with that while you are there disease but it's good to see others suffer from the same.

BTW - What's a "Flitz'ed front grille".
 
Snicker!!!!!
When I first got my GT6, I was just going to do a "quick and dirty" and drive it. I noticed that the headlight buckets were a bit rusty, so I thought I'd just pop them out and paint them. The next thing you know, the body is in the dip tank, the frame is out for blasting and treatment, and the bills are piling up.
My cousin drives for UPS, and one morning I was her first stop of the day. When she left she had an EMPTY truck.
Congratulations on getting off cheaply!!
BTW, I still haven't finished the GT6. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif
Jeff
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

Hey Jeff,

And dpo Pedro told us his restored TR6 needed only
a new ignition switch and then drive it.

Strange-- the car died before I could replace that switch.

d
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the 3A.

News flash, Dale.
DPO Pedro is a liar.
Just thought I'd let you know. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
Jeff
 
It really took about two spring months and I only missed a couple weeks of driving season. It took a long list and a lot of planning but my shop is well equipped and everything was done in-house.

It took as long as it did because of other more important business: my wife completed 16 weeks of chemotherapy and is about 2/3 way through radiation treatments. BIG WOOHOO!!! (It's her car BTW but I get to drive it msotly.) Also get the greenhouse going for planting, do the gardens (we have many), mow the lawns, etc etc. Busy time in the spring here in Maine.

To be honest, it's ALMOST done. I will be installing the headlights today and then putting the grille back in (ready and waiting.) Then drain the water in the radiator and replace with 50/50 antifreeze. Finally, a couple of nice WOOHOO drives tomorrow. ALready leak tested.

With all these changes, I keep wondering what I forgot. But I think all will be OK and the new handling show be superb.

Pictures forthcoming, but AFTER I drive.

BTW, did I mention that I also added a fuel shut-off valve and Justin Wagners silicone valve cover (polished the chrome on the buffing wheel too) gasket?
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the

Jeff,

I am stunned at that news !!

He has a beautiful, all original, 1973 Morgan he is
selling at a decent price. I was considering.....

d
 
Re: All I was going to do was r&r the apron on the

Don Elliott said:
...glue it onto the fins of the radiator where the crank hole should be. Then it will "look" right and a TRA judge may think that you have the crank hole through the rad.
Click to expand...

I'm tellin'!
 
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