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General TR It was just a loose wire

tinman58

Jedi Knight
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Well it started out as a loose wire for the headlights. I wiggled in down below the dash found the problem. And of course I found some other areas that after seven years of use and adding electric fan, halogen headlight relay, aux. turn signal (R&P steering), and horn the wiring got a little messy. So noe I have the dash cluster out and starting to strip and redo every thing. I have also learned better ways to do wiring now. I just hope this doesn't get out of hand.
 
Dan
It will get out of hand:encouragement:. Have you seen these? My daughters Robotic team is using them.

Regards
Paul
 
One could say it's already out of hand--but that's not necessarily bad. When you finally finish, it will be much more reliable.

I'm a great proponent of soldering and using heat-shrink tubing. You can't get a better connection.
 
Well, I have been using those wrong. I did not realize they had solder on them. I have been crimping and then heating the shrink tubing. Maybe I should read the directions?
 
I'm a great proponent of soldering and using heat-shrink tubing. You can't get a better connection.

I generally agree. It is easier to get a better connection with solder then with a poor crimp. However, it is possible to get an excellent, reliable connection using a good crimping tool with good non-insulated connectors. Use shrink tubing for insulation and strain relief. I've also been known to use the belt and suspenders approach by crimping and soldering. I did that with most of the connectors when I installed the Advance Auto Wire harness in my TR3.
 
From my years of looking under the hood of tr3s, I like to see that clean cloth wire harness. I am just an old purest and would probably replace the complete old harness if that looked tacky and then add in the extras as cleanly as I could. I am confidant you will get the system correct and safe, I have replaced a few and found it much easier than I thought.
 
Well I have all the wiring sorted out. Very happy with the results. Then I took the tach apart to find out what was making the noise. I couldn't find anything obvious so I put it all back together. Now it doesn't work at all. Where could I get this rebuilt at?
 
...Now it doesn't work at all. Where could I get this rebuilt at?

I'd first make sure the issue isn't something outside the unit, e.g. does the disconnected cable spin with the engine running? can you turn the movement by hand? (a nail or a small Phillips screwdriver can be used to turn the square input). If the movement is free to move it can be tested with a cordless drill (running in reverse).

I used Nisonger for my TR3 speedo. No complaints.

OTOH, I used Nisonger for a speedo (recalibration of a working unit) and it did not go well. In the end I had to buy an NOS replacement unit.

Another source for service is West Valley Instruments in Reseda: https://westvalleyinstruments.com/

I have not yet used them (wish I had) but chatted with Morris and am convinced he knows what he is doing.
 
+1 West Valley
 
+2 West Valley
 
And don't forget MoMa in Albuqueque.
 
What Geo said;and the tach is way easier than the speedo to check and the tach cable just hooks right there at the dizy. It sound like your cable might not be connected or needs replacing to short. Randall made a suggestion a while back about swapping the speedo and tach cables with each other to get an idea of what is going on, like a bouncy needle. If the symptoms move with the cable, then I would say the bushings or something in the cable are bad.


The last gauge I sent to MO MO came back working, but they sent back a different gauge; probably one they had on the shelf. In one year the needle started to rust through the paint. The MO MO is under different management and mine could have been an isolated incident, but if your Gauge is cosmetically nice--- make it clear you want that gauge back!!!!
steve
 
I am going to take the one out of the barn find for now.
 
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