Exhaust System Replacement

[Bobbee44]

I ordered a stainless exhaust system for my '60 BT-7. I acquired the automobile in February after it had ben refurbushed. The exhaust system is OK, but too loud, I think the muffler is without baffles. To make a long story short, I ordered the system in April from our "reputable" British automobile repair facility here in Northern Virginia. Needless to say, eight weeks for a simple exhaust system seems rather excessive. I finally received a call yesterday evening indicating the system would be delivered to the facility today, and did I want to install it myself or have the facility install it. Over the course of the past two months, I have been in contact with the facility personnel and each time I made it clear that I wanted them to install. The person on yesterday evening's call indicated that the installation would be very difficult and time consuming...setting the stage for what I think is the lowering of the proverbial boom for a high-cost installation.
I have changed out exhaust systems in Healeys before (when I had a lift at my disposal), and found the process rather straight forward and, quite frankly, easy (when all the metal was cool).
Here's the question, shall i take the exhasut system and run to another facility, or brave the potential of being hit hard with an over-top installation bill?
Thanks,
Bob

 

[Lin]

Neither. Just pick it up and do it yourself. Not that hard to do assuming the exhaust you purchased "fits." You did not say who the manufacturer is.

Lin

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey Bob,
I would install it myself. Have installed replacement exhaust systems on BN2's, BN6's and BJ8's and your BT7 is not difficult to do. Make sure you have new hangers which are cheap from Moss and others and it is pretty straight forward. Biggest problem will probably be getting the old system loose from the down pipes which I assume do not need to be replaced ? If you have trouble breaking an old rusted joint you can heat it up with a torch as well as notch the connectors on the silencer so you can spread the metal and then pry/twist/hammer off. Since you are replacing the entire system no need to be careful with the old one, just take care not to mess up your down pipes with the flexible metal. BTW, should be able to do this with the car on jack stands but admit a lift would be easier.
Good luck,
Mike

 

[kkaa]

Totally agree, do yourself. The hard part is getting the car in the air on stands, but its 4 nuts off the manifold to the headers, than just 2 hangers holding mufflers and pipes.

If you need pics, let us know.

 

[HealeyRick]

Totally agree, do yourself. The hard part is getting the car in the air on stands, but its 4 nuts off the manifold to the headers, than just 2 hangers holding mufflers and pipes.

If you need pics, let us know.

According to the factory "Schedule of Repair Times" should only take you an hour:

"E.25 Exhaust pipe and silencer assembly, remove and fit new . . . . 1h --"

 

[kkaa]

:highly_amused: Agree. The hardest part is the dammmmmmm header studs. Lucky for me, i had the fender off and could reach directly in....

According to the factory "Schedule of Repair Times" should only take you an hour:

"E.25 Exhaust pipe and silencer assembly, remove and fit new . . . . 1h --"

 

[steveg]

:highly_amused: Agree. The hardest part is the dammmmmmm header studs. Lucky for me, i had the fender off and could reach directly in....

Header studs can be reached with a long extension from directly underneath.

 

[Keith_M]

Header studs can be reached with a long extension from directly underneath.

you may need a wiggler along with the long extension, but I agree, it can be done from underneath.

 

[BoyRacer]

Getting to the nuts is not the problem. The problem is breaking off the studs if the nuts are seriously rusted or corroded. If that is the case, the only way to get the nuts off safely without breaking the stud is to get the nut red hot with a torch before twisting it off. Even if you have to take the car to the muffler shop and have them put heat onto the nuts to break them loose........ it's a lot easier than removing your exhaust manifold in order to replace a broken stud.
I would also begin squirting penetrating oil on the nuts about a week/month before your attempt to remove them. It won't totally solve the problem but it may help a little when you start the job. If not too rusted, maybe some MAP gas might do the trick.

 

[Bobbee44]

Thank you to all who responded. The new exhaust system is on and now I can hear myself think above 2500 RPM, a real treat.

Bob

 

[Johnny]

Hi Bob, lot's of info here I see. Since you "kinda" hinted that the existing system may have been replaced you probably won't have a problem with the "studs". Even if you do they can be purchased locally. If they are stubborn to remove I've cut them off (the nuts) with a dremel cutoff wheel. Just make one cut and use a wedge and a hammer to remove the nut from the stud.

Also make sure you have the correct seals to insure no fumes, or noise, exit at the downpipe connection to the manifold.

Another problem I've encountered is the tail pipes didn't exit past the rear bumper overider, thus the exhaust blackens the overider very quickly.

If I had to do it all over again I most likely would have taken my new exhaust system to a "Midas" or other muffler shop to have them remove and install the new system. In the long run you'll be better off, plus if it leaks they can fix it. Shop around you might be surprised of the cost if it's at a slow time. Something else to consider is some healey owners have a shop weld up the new system before installing guarunteeing a sealed system.