TR2/3/3A TR3 Steering groan

[TRclassic3]

A little background first. Rebuilt the steering box, replaced silentblocs with the Delrin, replaced an upper ball joint, all about 2 years ago. Steering has been OK, but I never did experience a noticeable difference in the ease of turning the wheel as a result.

At any rate, I now have a situation where the steering makes a rather noisy groaning sound when slow turning. It has also become more difficult to turn the wheel. I jacked the front end and the wheel turns easily. I could hear some slight noise/groan and it seems like it is coming from the silentblocs...both sides.

Open to thoughts, theories, and suggestions.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Ed,

I suggest you take a look at the hardware on the delrin blocks. A little corrosion on the bolts or washers could cause a groaning noise. Another possible source of the noise and perhaps the hard turning is the idler arm assembly. In my experience if this is not lubricated, turning effort is greatly increased.

 

[TRclassic3]

Thanks Dave, I will check those possibilities. I do try to keep everything greased up well. As I recall, the Delrin wasn't suppose to need lubrication, correct?

Anyone else want to weigh in?

TIA

 

[TR3driver]

The Delrin isn't "supposed" to need lubrication, but it won't hurt either. I'd try a few drops of light oil before disassembling it for greasing.

Also worth trying to check how well the idler arm is lined up with the steering box, IMO. They both have considerable play in the mounting, so if you just let the idler droop on it's bolts before tightening them, it may be forcing the Silentblocs to work at an angle. The steering box of course has to be mounted so the steering column lines up.

FWIW, I recently replaced the felt at the upper end of the steering column with Delrin. Not a huge difference, but definitely better. I turned my own, but maybe if there is enough interest, we can talk Joe A. into producing them commercially.

 

[TRclassic3]

The Silentblocs are silent again! Jacked the car,steering seemed a little tight but did not bind. Found that the zerk on the idler was loose, tightened and greased. Sprayed the Silentblocs with Kroil. Steering seemed some smoother. I then placed the stands under the A arms and tried the steering. No binding detected. Lowered it doen and went for a drive. As the kids would say "OMG" what a difference. Back to one hand steering.

While I had the wheels off, and the stands under the A arms, I noticed a significant difference in the way the upper ball joints sit in the vertical links. Passenger side appeared straight. That is, the ball joint was in a vertical alignment. The drivers side however was not. Where the joint connects to link was pointed to the outside, and the link, where the ball connects is pointed a down. So, less than the apparant 90 degrees of the other side. One can only assume that it is bent. How critical is this. I'm guessing that it's been like this the whole time I've owned the car (6 years). The car does not pull and there is no unusual tire wear.

 

[CJD]

I don't think I would trust bent suspension parts...

....way too important for your safety!

John

 

[TR4nut]

Ed-

Any chance you can take a picture of the problem area? You may not have any issues, but quite often the vertical link itself might be a little messed up as well.

Randy