TR2/3/3A Tr3 steering gear box removal

[ekamm]

So as I expected the steering gear box removal not so easy. This is a split column and I remember a few people saying that they had done it with the apron on. I think that Randall had said he loosened the motor mount on that side and was able to squeeze it by the mounting bracket that is on the back of the spring/shock tower. I will do that and am looking for any advice.

 

[TR3driver]

It was me, and I got it out and back in that way. Unfortunately it was some years ago and I don't recall all the details.

Start by removing the control head, wiring and stator tube, of course. I find it easier to leave the wires in the tube unless you're planning on replacing them. Set a pan under the steering box to catch any drips of leftover oil. Then I removed the coupling and inner upper column (along with the steering wheel). The column probably doesn't have to come out, but I was replacing the upper bushings, so I pulled it.

Disconnect the Silentbloc from the drop arm. Again, I removed the entire center link because I was working on it too, but it probably doesn't have to come out. Two bolts hold the steering box bracket to the frame, plus loosen two more bolts that clamp the box to the bracket. Looking at a photo of the area, I think the cross tube has to come out, but I don't recall removing it.

Loosen the upper bracket, and slide it up the tube. You should now be able to move the upper end of the lower column both up and down, and left and right (from the car's point of view), within the confines of the bracket on the frame and the timing housing on the motor.

Not sure if it is necessary, but I took both motor mounts loose so I could jack the engine up a long way. It has to come up and to the right enough to let the lower column rotate to the right and up past the bracket on the shock tower. My car also had the throttle linkage bent, which may have allowed the engine to come up more. If you find it pushing on the linkage hard enough to bend it, you might want to take the linkage loose from the firewall.

Once it's out of the upper bracket, then it's just a matter of maneuvering the box up and over the box section of the inner wing. Seems like I remember having to turn the shaft a bit, to move the drop arm so it would fit through someplace.

Here's a photo that might be helpful:
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/TS39781LO/DSCF0004-1.jpg

 

[Geo Hahn]

Great write-up, I've saved for the inevitable day when needed.

... My car also had the throttle linkage bent, which may have allowed the engine to come up more...

Fortunately, I also have that mod.

 

[ekamm]

I have just figured out that the cross tube does have to come out. How the heck do you get the upper most bolt of the passenger side out I can't get a wrench on it.

 

[TR3driver]

Hmm, doesn't seem to be a problem for me. Maybe your car is different?

 

[ekamm]

I figure it out I think that I was just trying to make it hard. . It did help loosening the generator. Well i finally got the box out I didn't let it beat me! Although it was close at the end. Now to get her open and see what's up.

 

[sp53]

Hi Eric I would like to comment about removing the front apron. The removal is not that difficult and it is one of those things that should be done. It allows you access to the radiator and fan assembly. Furthermore, Tr3s are notorious for running hot unless they are set up for summer. In addition, the removal will help with getting the lights and stuff cleaned up. Moreover, on tr3 it was expected the apron would be removed now and then for major maintenance, they were somewhat designed with that in mind.
Steve