TR2/3/3A TR3 steering column/bad post

[TFB]

Sorry for bad post.Here goes again.
My tr3 came with steering column diassembled.The shematics I have show one piece shaft from stering wheel hub to box,and one piece outer support column from box to wheel.
I have two piece shaft.Splined half shaft from box to about fuel pump,below support for outer column,and half shaft from wheel to about the right lengh with splined coulpler I have.
I seem to be missing the upper outer support shaft that would attach to the support behind dash,and the one by fuel pump.
Also the steering shaft half in the wheel,with horn and signal switch intact,has the 4 wires hanging out.The shaft to box is hollow.I would not think that the wires go into the stering box,but cant seem to figure how this would all go toghether.
Thanks
Tom

 

[Marvin Gruber]

The later TR3s have the two piece steering column. With out looking at my books I don't remember what year that started. Someone will post that shortly. Do you have a 1/2" dia. long metal tube? The wires from horn head assembly do go down the little hollow tube. You slide the long metal tube ( with the wire and head attached) down the steering column and out the steering box. There is a ferrel nut on the steering box that goes over the metal tube and seals the oil from leaking out. The four wires will then tie into you wiring harness where the horn is mounted.

Marv

 

[TFB]

Marv,Thanks for replie and info.
I think i must get a book that covers the late tr3 as the ones I have now dont cover this.
This type column must have been very limited as Moss shows only the early style.
Thanks again
Tom

 

[TR3driver]

Unfortunately, none of the books cover the later 'split' column very well; but by far the majority of TR3A/B had it. (Note the inset on the Moss catalog page, the information is there if you look for it.) Moss gives the change point as approximately TS42k, but TS39781LO had it.

The upper outer section may be fooling you, it's just a thin hollow tube. I have a spare available, but you should probably look for one closer to home.

As Marv describes, there is a "stator tube" that carries the wires through the steering column, through the steering box, and out the front of the box. The tube also stops the control head from turning, so the turn signal switch remains pointing up (except when the signals are on, of course). Last I heard, Macy's Garage was the only source for new tubes https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Stator%20Tube

Worth noting perhaps that there is a rubber/steel/nylon bushing thingie (P/N 606630) on either side of the split. You might want to replace those along with the felt at the steering wheel end (43314), while you have it apart.

Personally, I would also replace the bushing, seal & peg in the steering box (plus careful adjustment); but that is a more involved operation and takes some special tools.

 

[TFB]

Randall,thanks,I will check moss again for diagram.
the upper shaft support column half I would think is more tan a thin tube as the steering shaft appears about 5/8 while the holes in the suppports are about 1 1/2" ,unless some locating bushing goes there.Thanks for Macy's link,
Tom

 

[TR3driver]

I meant 'thin' as in thin-wall. The rest of the difference is empty space, except where the bushings are.

 

[TFB]

Randall,
Thanks I looked at it tonite and yes looks like its probably similar to the long one,only shorter.Wish I could get diagram of upper section and wheel.The one pic I found for earlier looks like the tube slides over a stub on base plate.The tube is not there,but it appears the steering wheel/horn /signal has not been removed.I am soaking in some kroil,but would like to not damage anything,especially since this steering wheel is nice with no cracks.
Can the tube slide out wthout taking the wheel apart?
Thanks again

Tom

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, the stator tube should pull out easily, so it is quite possible to remove the entire upper column without removing the steering wheel or control head (although I would not recommend this as a normal course of action). The stator tube actually fits inside the stub; the stub has some dimples that protrude into a slot in the tube.

First step in getting the wheel off is to back off the three tiny 'grub' screws that are located in the back of the steering wheel hub (well, actually the front relative to the car). It won't hurt anything to remove them entirely, but they only need to come out by perhaps 3/16" each to free up the control head. Then the head should pull out easily, leaving just the big nut holding the wheel to the shaft.

 

[TFB]

Randall ,Thanks.
I think I now have enough info to do some informed parts hunting.
Tom

 

[Marvin Gruber]

On the Stator tube, don't forget to remove the nut and ferrell fitting (as well as unplugging the wires)at the steering box before trying to pull out. I like to tape off the wire ends as well.

Marv

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Tom,
Reread your post, do I understand the horn button is still in the column? Also do you have the adjustable column?

Marv

 

[TFB]

Marv,
I have two steering wheels that came with car,in boxes,adjustable and standard,both with upper split shafts attached.Adjistable has no horn or signal stuff,standard is cherry,looks like it was just lifted out of car.
Although chassis is mostly restored with steering box and lower half of split column bolted in,the wheel that I think is the standard(no long splines or hand knob to tighten behind hub) has the horn button and turn switch intact,with wires hanging out end of split shaft,no stator tube present in steering box or upper split shaft. Looking at the splined coupler I would assume the the adjustable wheel is different only in the upper section,as it looks like I could use either wheel.
The adjustable is cracked in the usual places ,hopefully i can trade for needed stuff.
You guys are a great help
Thanks
Tom

 

[TR3driver]

The adjustable wheel takes a slightly different control head and stator tube. Otherwise, I believe they interchange as long as you have the correct upper column to match.

Personally, I'd suggest going with the standard steering wheel. The adjustable one adjusts from "too close" to "closer than that", while most people think even the standard wheel could be a bit farther away from the driver. The adjustable wheel won't go as far away from the driver as the standard wheel.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Less is sometimes better.

Marv

 

[TFB]

yes, I like the standard wheel,especially since its not cracked.
Thanks again for experienced input.
Tom