TR2/3/3A TR3 Radiator Mounting

[martx-5]

I'm getting ready to mount the radiator in the resto project. I have a couple of questions.

1. Is there any type of rubber mount that goes between the radiator and the frame?? Or is is just bolted down with no isolation?? I don't see any reference in the parts catalogs.

2. The lower radiator hose assembly going to the pump has an intermediate steel tube that has a crook in it. Where does the crook go, and what direction does it face?? I would think the crook has to be at the bottom, but does it face to the center or to the front?? Or am I way off base??

3. I'm installing an electric fan (it came with the rack and pinion kit). It has one of those 'stuff the capillary tube in the upper radiator hose' type of things. Has anyone used one of these?? Is there any problem with leakage?? It would be nice to use this, as it is adjustable.

Thanks,

 

[angelfj1]

I'm getting ready to mount the radiator in the resto project. I have a couple of questions.

1. Is there any type of rubber mount that goes between the radiator and the frame?? Or is is just bolted down with no isolation?? I don't see any reference in the parts catalogs.

<span style="font-weight: bold">yes - there is a "packing" type washer, Triumph part no. 48101, quantity, A/R. this is from the official factory catalog. the radiator is attached by 2 bolts. one on each side, from the BOTTOM. There is a weld nut in the rad mounting bracket. So from the bottom of the chassis member , you have the bolt through the hole in the chassis then the packing washer, then into the weld nut. Some free advice that I got from Don Elliott. These bolts are a real bugger to get out. So what Don advised is to cut a screwdriver slot into the end of the bolt. When you need to remove them in the future start by using a long screwdriver. Then Bob's your uncle!</span>
2. The lower radiator hose assembly going to the pump has an intermediate steel tube that has a crook in it. Where does the crook go, and what direction does it face?? I would think the crook has to be at the bottom, but does it face to the center or to the front?? Or am I way off base??

<span style="font-weight: bold">No, at least not on my car, or if you look at the catalog. If you start from the bottom of the radiator, which becomes the inlet of the water pump, you should have a 90 deg. hose into a straight pipe, then anothe 90 deg. hose into the water pump.</span>
3. I'm installing an electric fan (it came with the rack and pinion kit). It has one of those 'stuff the capillary tube in the upper radiator hose' type of things. Has anyone used one of these?? Is there any problem with leakage?? It would be nice to use this, as it is adjustable.

<span style="font-weight: bold">I'm not familiar with these.</span>

Thanks,

 

[Don Elliott]

There is a packing rubber as Frank wrote, one under each mountng point. But if your front motor maounts are a but old (soft), the front end of the engine will be down a bit. Then if you have and still want to use the hole in the rad with a hand crank, those rubber packings may be too thick. A piece of rubber or two (1/16" thick) will lower the rad so the hole in the rad will still let you "catch" the end of the hand crank on the end of the crankshaft front bolt.

Here is a photo I had shown before. You will see that I have one piece of 1/16" thick rubber as a pad.

 

[Don Elliott]

The pipe to the bottom hose has a 20 degree or so bend in it closer to one end. The photo shows that the short end is towards the bottom. It's a bit tricky to get it all in as one piece. Try doing it one piece at a time. First, the lower hose with the hose clamps loose, then the pipe and finally the top hose. Then tighten the clamps.

 

[angelfj1]

Don: The factory must have modified that cooling pipe. The parts cat. shows that as a straight run. What do you think?

 

[TR3driver]

But if your front motor maounts are a but old (soft), the front end of the engine will be down a bit. Then if you have and still want to use the hole in the rad with a hand crank, those rubber packings may be too thick.

I believe what the factory did when the radiator was too high was to add shims between the front motor mounts and the front plate. P/N 109582, used "as required".

 

[TR3driver]

Don: The factory must have modified that cooling pipe. The parts cat. shows that as a straight run. What do you think?

Yup, changed in early TR2 production and the drawing was never updated.

 

[martx-5]

Don's photo of the tube shows the orientation that seemed about right when I messed around with it. I don't have the crank hole in the radiator, so getting the height exactly right for the crank is not an issue. I will however put in a piece(s) of rubber so that at least the hoses line up pretty good. Besides, it just didn't seem right that there should be nothing there.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, I was worried about the frame flexing and forcing the radiator to flex with it. So I used much longer bolts for the radiator bottom mounts, and put springs under the heads.

Can't prove it helped radiator life any, so it's just a thought. But with the other handling mods I made, I could definitely feel the frame flex in hard corners. Probably should have reinforced it to limit the flex, but never got a round tuit.

 

[angelfj1]

I really shouldn't do it, but I can't help it.

FWIW, I was worried about the frame flexing and forcing the radiator to flex with it. So I used much longer bolts for the radiator bottom mounts, <span style="text-decoration: underline">and put springs under the heads.</span>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Does that mean that you must use "spring water" in the radiator???? </span>

 

[PeterK]

Mine came with, and I have replaced them with, a round rubber fender washer (a.k.a. packing piece) that I purchased from my local hardware store. They came is several thickness so take your pick.

spring water ...