TR2/3/3A TR3 Radiator Drain Tap

[Tinkerman]

In my lifetime experience a valve handle running in line with the flow of liquid meant that the valve was open. Crosswise with the flow meant the valve is shut. Not so with my drain tap. I went around and tightened all of the hose clamps and then checked that the valve was closed. It was, based on my lifetime experience definition. Silly boy! I got about half a gallon of coolent in the radiator and my wife, who was with me, suddenly shouted that it was running out. Got the coolent container under it and was able to shut the valve.
Several questions
1: Is handle in line, normal, for that stop tap?

2: The handle feels loosy goosy, like it is not a firm close. Is that normal?

3. Can they be rebuilt or is it new stop tap time?

As always thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.

Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

1. Yes, like light switches, the British do things backwards to the way we do them on this side of the pond.

2. No, should be relatively stiff to turn. Loose means it will leak.

3. I've done several of them successfully. The usual problem is the spring that holds the moving part of the valve into the body; they tend to rust and fail. I cut a new SS spring from one in the parts bin (or OSH seems to have a good selection of them). You'll probably also want a new flat washer and cotter pin.

The center of the valve is tapered, so you can re-lap it against the valve body to improve the fit. Then clean thoroughly and use your favorite "stop cock" grease.

In an emergency, I've wrapped a worm-drive hose clamp around it, to hold the valve together. Worked great for over a year (until I finally noticed and remembered )

 

[6TTR3A]

Since they are such a pain to get to I just soldered mine shut and when I
want to drain the block I just remove it. There is usually enough crud at that part of the block to load the exit anyway.
FRank