TR2/3/3A TR3 Apron Removal/Radiator Replacement

[RedTR3]

In January I plan to start the (smallmouth) apron removal and radiator replacement. I would appreciate any suggestions and instructions in addition to Haynes' instructions regarding the apron removal. I have already started applying PB Blaster to the bolts. I believe that the apron on this car has been removed in the past by others. Thanks!

 

[TR3driver]

Do you have any specific questions? It's been a long time since I read a Haynes manual, and they aren't all the same anyway.

Think carefully about what else you want to do while the apron is off (eg rebuild the steering box); and to give some consideration to where you will store the apron while working on the radiator. I managed to knock mine over and banged up the paint.

Some needle-nose vice grips

can be helpful for stubborn bolts. In most (not all) cases, you can reach inside and clamp them onto the cage for the captive nut, so you can use more force on the bolt without spinning the nut inside the cage. Also, if you have a bolt that starts to turn and then gets stiff again, work it back and forth to loosen up whatever is on the threads (rust, road tar, undercoating, etc) rather than just trying to force it.

You'll get lots of suggestions on how to handle the fender beads. My current preference is to just remove them first and store in a safe place. That eliminates any concern over them getting loose and scratching the paint, or getting damaged while removing the apron.

Don't forget to disconnect all the necessary wires, and pull them out of the clips on the inner fenders. It's possible to lift the apron away by yourself, but having to stop in the middle because a wire is caught is a definite nuisance.

 

[DNK]

Do you have the Bentley manual?

 

[RedTR3]

Yes Don, I have the Bentley Manual. Thanks, Tim

I do not have specific questions (yet)...

 

[DNK]

I would think the Bentley would have better instructions , so was just making sure

 

[Geo Hahn]

Having just done this I approached it with some trepidation as it had certainly not been off for more than 35 years and was not treated particularly well when it was installed then.

In the end mine was easy. In a way the poor job they did before helped as I readily sacrificed bolts and took an angle grinder to one area that had been welded in place.

The wing bolts don't really hold the apron on the car -- that is much more the job of the 4 bolts holding the cross-brace at the front of the engine bay and 4 bolts at the bottom of the apron.

I did not remove the headlamps though you may need to if you need to get at the back side of the some of the captive nuts.

Since you do not have a cardboard shroud (has to come off the wide mouth to get at 2 of the bottom bolts) I do not know if you can also leave the smallmouth grill & sidelamps in place.

A bunch of old blankets (and in my case a thick old comforter) made a good home for the apron. I had to do some work on it to replace some nut cages so I used a folding table for a dedicated work space with the apron secured with bungees. It isn't at all heavy but the shape and size make it a bit unwieldy.

My main objective was replacing a broken timing chain tensioner but I also did a radiator re-core and of course a fresh crank seal. If your crank seal is leaking or tensioner is noisy these might be among the things to think about.

I also replaced motor mounts -- the drivers side in particular was in sorry shape -- possibly because engine torque tugs at it and the TR3 has no torque buffer (like the TR4 has).

If your replacement radiator retains the crank hole (I did) you may need to shim either the radiator or the engine to align the guide/hole/crank.

I changed the lower mount for the radiator -- eliminated the welded nut on the bracket and welded a couple of bolts pointing up thru the lower mounting holes. Makes fitting and future removal of the radiator a bit easier (compared with getting at that bolt head in a tight space).

I found I could weld replacement cages in place by using a wet towel pressed against the nearby paintwork -- but if in doubt the cages can be riveted.

When reattaching I used fender washers from Ace -- a bit of a novelty as in all the times I have used them this is the first time I used them on a fender. I don't think the original washers were that big but between the damaged slot holes and the replaced cages I thought a big washer was prudent.

Massive amount of anti-seize was involved in the reassembly -- hopefully someone will think well of me in the far future.

 

[RedTR3]

The wing bolts don't really hold the apron on the car -- that is much more the job of the 4 bolts holding the cross-brace at the front of the engine bay and <span style="font-weight: bold">4 bolts at the bottom of the apron.</span>

Hi George, Can you direct me to where these 4 bolts on the bottom are located? I took a quick look today and did not see them. Thanks, Tim

 

[TR3driver]

Only the later "wide mouth" cars have the 4 bolts at the bottom, Tim.

And I disagree that the wing bolts are not important : the apron is rather flimsy and really needs to be supported along both sides as well as the top (and bottom on later cars). You can "get by" without the wing bolts, but chances are that the joint will move enough under road vibration to cause a problem later on.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...And I disagree that the wing bolts are not important...

Oops, I didn't express that well - they are obviously important. I was trying to say that (on mine anyway) the wing bolts can be removed without the apron going anywhere -- hence they were the first step for me.

Interesting that small mouths did not have those 4 lower bolts -- in any case I just kept removing bolts until there were no more.

 

[TR3driver]

I was trying to say that (on mine anyway) the wing bolts can be removed without the apron going anywhere -- hence they were the first step for me.

Sorry, my mistake. Yeah, the apron doesn't need to be supported while removing any of the bolts; it will stay in place (with the car parked) with just the top brace seated in the brackets on the inner fenders. With all of the bolts removed, you pull the bottom out a couple of inches and then lift it up so the brace comes out of the brackets.

That whole "shelf" inside the grill is much smaller on the "small mouth" cars, so it lacks several inches of meeting the inner fenders. The TR2-3 also didn't have the apron tied into the bumper supports the way the later cars did. The whole bottom edge just kind of waved in the breeze, with the result that many of them cracked from vibration.

PS, I guess I should change my avatar, since I've now installed the proper "small mouth" apron on my 56. But I still kind of miss the 59; it was a birthday present from my late wife and I had a lot of fun with it.

 

[RedTR3]

I finished the job today, thank you all for the advice. The project went pretty smooth. I think because the apron had been removed and replaced by a previous owner, the captive nuts/bolts were not rusted and frozen. Overall a pretty easy job.

I installed a new Wizard aluminum radiator, I can tell already that it is a big improvement. Thanks again, Tim