Timing cover seal project

[Brosky]

My next project on the TR6 will be the timing cover gasket and seal as well as the water pump. Hopefully, I can coordinate this with the painting of the underside of the hood and will be able to do the work with the hood off and in the body shop.

Any tips or tricks that I should know about? I know that the front support assembly will have to come off to get the harmonic balancer off and I was wondering if that's a big deal.

And yes, I will be trying to powder coat everything that I can while it's off.

Thanks,

 

[Brosky]

I can't believe that there are no tricks to this. How about the support between the frame rails in front of the harmonic balancer? That looks like it could present some issues.

 

[hondo402000]

I am getting ready to do the same project this weekend, Everything seems simple but I am realizing you can do it faster in your mind than in reality

 

[Brosky]

I know that someone is sitting out there with a big as--d grin waiting for me to post back the same horrors that they encountered but refuse to give up. Sigh.......I guess I'll just have to earn my varsity letter on this one.

 

[Guest]

Hey Paul,
Getting to the timing chain cover and seal requires removal of the radiator, fan, crossmember (piece of cake - six bolts, slides right out), fan extension and pulley. The reason I chose to remove the radiator was to be able to get an impact wrench on the extension bolt. Yes, an impact wrench. Otherwise it is a royal pain to get that big bolt to break aloose. I got cheap gear puller form NAPA and ground on it a bit to get a purchase on the pulley without scarring it, pushing against the crank itself. The timing cover comes off next. Be sure to replace the oil seal if you are gonna refresh the timing chain cover, cheap insurance for a very critical area. Check out your chain tensioner also, should be good. Follow manual instructions for getting the tensioner back in place. I am a big fan of Permatex Aviation Sealer as a sealant for the gasket. I made up a piece of iron pipe with a cap on the end to drive the pulley back on (cut a slot in the side to clear the key in the crank {another reason to take the radiator out, makes room to work.}) Yes, I used the impact wrench to put the crank bolt back on, of course I was judicious in it's use.
Remember that the crank turns in the direction of the fan extension bolt, ie will want to unscrew the thing. Might want to make sure that the split lock washer for this bolt is fresh.
Watch the the little steel dowels in the pulley don't fall out, they are just snugged into their holes, almost finger tight. Just check these.
Good luck.

Bill

 

[RobT]

Did this project over the winter. As Bill says, pulling the radiator and the cross-member are necessary, and keep track of where the "short" bolts holding the cover on go - if you get them in the wrong place, you may warp the front engine plate. You may want to also replace the sleeve on the crank that the timing chain cover rubber seal runs on - these are pretty cheap, and mine was quite worn. You could also go the whole hog, pull the front engine plate, sump and replace or re-seal the alloy block at the bottom front of the engine. These always seem to leak and there is a guy that is making steel replacements. And while you have the sump off, you may want to check the crank end-float and replace the rear thrust washer.

Humm... probably more than a week-end's worth of work though. I started off intending to replace the radiator hoses and ended up doing all the above - plus some more!

 

[Brosky]

Thanks for the tips guys. I've talked to my friends at Her Majestys Service in Swansea, MA and they have said as much as you both. I just wasn't sure about the cross member and if it was a pain to get out.
Naturally, I'll check the T/C and gears as well as the tensioner. I knew of a guy in CT selling the front engine plate, but lost his name. Any ideas in case I need it? Only 58,000 miles and the main leak appears to be from the seal.
Since I'll be pulling the radiator, I'll probably do this in conjunction with the JetCoating of the intake and exhaust manifolds. By doing so, I can clean the block really well and paint everything before it goes in for the under hood paint detailing. I guess I might as well make arrangements with the body shop to do the under hood paint while this is being done so they can have the hood off while I do all of the engine work.
Once again another little LBC molehill turns into a mountain.