Timing Cover crankshaft pulley seal

[vette]

I just bought a complete set of engine gaskets for my car and it apparently does not include the seal that goes around the crank pulley snout. The shop manual says that you have to replace the complete cover if you want to renew this seal. I see that Moss offers one of the seals. Part #535-111. Does anyone have experience with this seal? Does it fit right? Does it work? Is is felt or rubber? I've read that the felt ones are a bear to install correctly. Thanks for the info. Dave.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Believe you have a BT7? AFAIK all the 6-cyls have a typical rubber, lip seal. It works as well as any rubber, lip-type seal and is removed and installed like any other (say, a wheel bearing seal). Only the 4-bangers have a felt seal (we got a timing cover modified for the lip seal from BCS for our BN2).

Couple points on installation: make sure the seal self-centers on the crank before tightening the cover bolts. Make sure you don't have a groove worn on the crank, if so you'll need a Redi-Sleeve or equivalent.

 

[Randy Forbes]

... and always lubricate the seal lip/crankshaft upon installation.

 

[vette]

Ok, thanks for the info. Looks like I can order the one from Moss.
Randy, good to hear from you. Did you really sell your Healey. Or am I not suppose to talk about that. Oh yeh, what is the best way to get the nut off the pulley/damper?
Dave.

 

[steveg]

This homemade setup worked for me dealing with the crank nut:
https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/93312770

Also - the seal runs on the pulley itself. That's where the speedi/redi-sleeve goes if there's a groove.

When you jack up the front of the engine to access the nut and remove the pulley, don't forget to disconnect the throttle linkage first; in addition, you may need to undo the rear transmission mount.

 

[vette]

Thanks Steve, looks like a good system. But my engine is out of the car on an engine stand. Not sure how to hold the crank still. The manual says to use a dead blow wrench and just whack at it. Of course I don't have a dead blow wrench. And I don't like beating on anything. This engine has been excellent running and I don't want to screw anything up. I'm not much of a machinery type of mechanic. More a systems and auxiliar equipment guy. I've been thinking about welding up a fitting with handle to bolt to the damper bolts. I wonder if an air impact wrench would get it off. Then my next thought is how do I torque it when I put it back on. Dave.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Ok, thanks for the info. Looks like I can order the one from Moss.
Randy, good to hear from you. Did you really sell your Healey. Or am I not suppose to talk about that. Oh yeh, what is the best way to get the nut off the pulley/damper?
Dave.

Now where did you hear that? The Healey's in the garage, and I have every intention of it staying there (even my wife acknowledges this...). Next Monday, April 1st, will mark the thirty-fifth (35th) anniversary of its purchase.

Thanks Steve, looks like a good system. But my engine is out of the car on an engine stand. Not sure how to hold the crank still. The manual says to use a dead blow wrench and just whack at it. Of course I don't have a dead blow wrench. And I don't like beating on anything. This engine has been excellent running and I don't want to screw anything up. I'm not much of a machinery type of mechanic. More a systems and auxiliar equipment guy. I've been thinking about welding up a fitting with handle to bolt to the damper bolts. I wonder if an air impact wrench would get it off. Then my next thought is how do I torque it when I put it back on. Dave.

Since your engine's out of the car, for the cost of an oil pan gasket, you have the ideal situation; use a wooden block between the 1st counter-weight and the inside of the block to keep it from rotating (placing the block here will prevent the crank from twisting__likewise, put the block at the last C-W if you're pulling the flywheel).

An air/electric impact should definitely be capable of removing the nut. While you should have enough room with a stock dampener, I had to turn down the snout of this socket to fit inside the currently available "race" dampener:

This homemade setup worked for me dealing with the crank nut:
https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/93312770

Also - the seal runs on the pulley itself. That's where the speedi/redi-sleeve goes if there's a groove.

When you jack up the front of the engine to access the nut and remove the pulley, don't forget to disconnect the throttle linkage first; in addition, you may need to undo the rear transmission mount.

Yes, you're right; so it's lubricate the lip and pulley before assembling,