rear hub nut size?

[dons66]

Does anyone happen to know the size of the nut holding the rear hub on a banjo axle? I thought I would replace the seals but figured I should have the right size socket around first.

Thanks

Don

 

[tony barnhill]

1-5/16"....& they're handed just like the knock-off's

 

[tomkatb]

My early car (63) is the Octagon 1-61/64” size. That’s not in most toolboxes.

I have no ideas what year it changed. I thought it was late 67. I have worked on mine several times. Driver side is reversed threads. Righty loosens. Not a crescent wrench thing.

Larry

 

[dons66]

You are right. I don't have a 1 61/64th in the tool box! I'm guessing they are not too easy to find either. I recall doing a rear hub 30 years ago (the last time I had one of these cars). I would not have had one then, so wondering how I managed to get it off.

Oh well, off to get a 1 15/16ths that may need a little grinding to get it to fit.

Thanks

Don

 

[tony barnhill]

Don - get a cheap one & turn the outside a couple of times on your metal lathe...

 

[Steve_S]

You can find thin wall hub sockets at a "real" tool or auto parts store.

 

[tomkatb]

My understanding from a local MG mechanic one can carefully hit the nut with a small nail set and work it off. He does not have the tool.

I have also heard that there is a tool for 4 wheel drives(*hubs) that is this size sort of. It can be borrowed at Auto Zone. I have just heard this.

I bought the tool from Moss years ago. It is in the catalog. Socket, Rear Hub Nut 384-905 $49.20 MGA & MGB (banjo type axles only)


Larry

 

[dons66]

I have a feeling I may have knocked the nut off with a similar technique to the nail set 30 years ago.

I'll have a look around the auto stores, see what I can find under $50. I had a look a few days ago at one store found the four wheel drive tools but they don't have measurements, just "jeep" or "ford". Next time I'll take something to measure them with.

Tony, metal lathe. I think I have one of those, one side spins with a wire brush the other side with a hard stone?

I think I'll save the job until I get a rain forecast for a few days, or until winter.

Thanks

Don

 

[tony barnhill]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Tony, metal lathe. I think I have one of those, one side spins with a wire brush the other side with a hard stone?[/QUOTE]

Not a metal lathe but it'll work...just stick the socket on an extension & hold it up to the hard stone & rotate it as the stone cuts it....but try in in your axle first, it might fit without having to be thinned down.

 

[tomkatb]

Don.

My left rear seal has been leaking for years. I had been fooling with it. The DPO that is me, did a shade tree repair on it last year. Today I gave up and went to the local MG place for help.

Our hero took the bearing, seals and hubs out and replaced all items.

The bearings were turning in the race and the seal and hub was destroyed by pieces of debris.

The MG guy had a used hub fortunately.

It was all repaired in about one hour. Having the right tools and a little know how makes all the difference. Now I know how to do it in an hour.

Larry

 

[DrEntropy]

I'm hyperventilating now!


YOU GUYS!!!

 

[dons66]

On the plus side, my hub seals have not been leaking. It is just that after I bought my car I took everything apart except the rear end for inspection, painting, cleaning / new seals, gaskets etc. I took the rear end out the winter before last as the pinion seal was leaking but did not bother doing the hub seals since they were not leaking. And maybe because I did not have the right size socket.

This summer I figured I should probably do the hub seals too, call it preventative maintenance.

We have a very good MG shop in town. I would think about trying to rent a socket from them but I am on the do it yourself side with this car.

That is one of the reasons I got it, because they are easy to work on. Half the fun is fiddling with it then the other half is taking it for a rip on the nearest winding road to appreciate the work you just did.

Great forum to help me remember some of the bits from the last time I had one of these helps a lot too!

I should say thanks to Dave duBois, he had a tip on using a relay on the brake switch to stop them from burning out. Works like a charm. I had gone through three switches in three summers and the fourth was getting to the point where the brake lights only came on with hard application of the brakes. Dave's relay tip has them working with light brake application, and I expect I'll get many summers out of the switch now.

Don