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TR4/4A TR4 Rear Hub removal

doughairfield

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Trying to get the rear driver side hub off my TR4 so I can replace some bad studs. I've taken the cotter pin and slotted nut out but I can't seem to get the hub off even with some decent pulling force.

Anyone got a trick to getting the hub off?
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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If you just want to change studs, remove the axle shaft from the housing instead. Getting the hub off the shaft is a major operation, requiring a special puller that produces incredible force (upwards of 20 tons, according to some). Trying to use an ordinary puller frequently results in ruining the hub.

Here's a shot of the special tool for "small" Triumphs. The TR4 version is similar, but larger.

Fig7Rearhubpuller.jpg
 
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doughairfield

doughairfield

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So let me get a little more specific. I'm converting to wire wheels by putting new splines on the hubs and one of my wheel studs on the rear is in bad shape and won't take the new nut. So i'm thinking i just need to get a new stud in there.

What would be the best way to proceed knowing my end goal is to replace the stud?
Do I still need to pull the half shaft and go from there?
Does anyone know if the studs on a 64 TR4 are threaded and peened over on the back side?
 

TR3driver

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doughairfield said:
Does anyone know if the studs on a 64 TR4 are threaded and peened over on the back side?
Yes. They are screwed in from the face, and peened over on the back. You'll need to get in there with a die grinder or similar, to grind away the peened area.

It might be possible without getting the backing plate out of the way (aka pulling the shaft), but you're going to have to work "around the corner", likely with an inspection mirror or similar to see what has to be done. I just pulled the shaft; it's only 6 bolts. But it's best to either replace the locking plates, or just use Loctite instead.
 

TR3driver

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PS, depending on how bad it is, you might be able to run a re-threading die down the stud and form the threads enough to be usable. The re-threading dies are designed to roll the threads back into place, rather than cutting them off as a normal die does.

Sears has a nice set for around $50 (which includes rethreading taps as well); or MMC has a set of just UNF dies for about $10. Very worthwhile tools to have, I'm sorry I didn't take Bobby D's advice many years ago (although $50 bills were mighty scarce for me back then).
 
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doughairfield

doughairfield

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sounds like I'm probably better off unscrewing the 6 bolts holding the half shaft in and going from there. In for a penny, in for a pound.
 

Geo Hahn

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doughairfield said:
...I can't seem to get the hub off even with some decent pulling force...

Indecent pulling force is more like it. FWIW, this is a typical (non-Churchill) hub puller. Anything less is not likely to do well.

TR%20Hub%20Puller.JPG


But pulling the half axle is not such a big deal and (I think) if you use the same shims removed you will end up with the same end float as before.
 

KVH

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I had my hubs into an excellent shop here in Tucson, and using the best heavy equipment they had, they called and said they'd ruin the hubs if they tried any further. It seems Triumph really went overboard, using some kind of tapered design that binds for life.
 

TR3driver

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KVH said:
It seems Triumph really went overboard, using some kind of tapered design that binds for life.
It's just an ordinary "locking" taper, similar to that used on tie rod ends & such. It doesn't lock all that tight at first, but seems to work its way tighter over time, likely due to the hub flexing and the brakes heating the hub hotter than the axle (then letting it cool) over and over again.

I also rather suspect the hub flexes slightly when you are trying to pull it, gripping the shaft even tighter. Here's an alternate puller design, that the author claims makes them come off easy:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...Q4&hl=en_US

FWIW, on most RWD cars, the hubs & halfshafts are one piece. There is even an upgrade path for the TR axles where the hub and shaft are one piece; for better strength.
 

wheelguy

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Do not forget that when converting to wire wheels you must replace the studs with shorter one OR cut the old longer ones off flush with the wire wheel hub nut. If not .... the wheel will never seat on the new hub and will rest on the too long steel wheel studs. That would not be a very pretty ride....
Wheelguy
 

Geo Hahn

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wheelguy said:
Do not forget that when converting to wire wheels you must replace the studs with shorter one OR cut the old longer ones off flush with the wire wheel hub nut...

Or some use a 6mm/.25" spacer behind the adaptor.

spacers.JPG
 

Geo Hahn

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KVH said:
I had my hubs into an excellent shop here in Tucson, and using the best heavy equipment they had, they called and said they'd ruin the hubs if they tried any further...

Well if you want to try the above pictured puller let me know -- but you'll need to line up a huge air compressor and impact wrench to get the max effect.

An old liquor decanter with a glass stopper can also give you an appreciation of how secure a taper connection can be.
 

TR3TR6

Jedi Warrior
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Doug:
When I replaced my rear studs, I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut off the back side of the studs. You can get into small areas with that. I then went to the hardware store and purchased grade 8 bolts with the same thread and the length that I needed. I screwed them in from the back side (don't have to worry about them pulling through) and they have worked very well.
 

GeneW

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I happen to be the guilty party that designed the alternate puller that Randall has referenced and appreciate him making the article available. If anyone would like their hubs separated from the axle I would welcome the opportunity to use the tool. It really does "capture" the hub so the hub is held rigid and comes off the axle with little fanfare. I have done about 12 hub separations so far and if any forum member desires I will separate them for no charge except what it costs for shipping to return the hubs/axles from my home in Wisconsin. It takes about 10 minutes to separate the hubs so I am able to return ship the items the day after I receive them. Hope this helps somebody as I appreciate all the information received on the forum.
 
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doughairfield

doughairfield

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Thanks for all the feedback. I actually just pulled the half shaft out and swapped it for another one I had. Surprisingly easy. I guess I just couldn't stand not getting those new wire wheels on over the weekend.

I'm still planning on getting those old studs out of my original hub just in case so I'll have a back up. And just so I can say I've done it.

Oh and I did cut the studs down with a hack saw after fitting the splines on like Allen instructed.
 
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