Installing New Top

[SaxMan]

With my current top literally disintegrating each time I put the roof up, and with November upon us, I decided it was time to put a new top on Baby Blue. I got the old top off without too much fuss. Of course, there were no installation instructions with the new top. I have three questions this evening:

1. Is it better to install from the header (Front) and work your way back, or start from the rear and work your way forward?

2. When I removed the old top, there was spray adhesive put on the header. Is this necessary? Good idea? Bad idea?

3. Any other pointers you can share to make this an easier job?

I do know about marking the top with chalk on the spots that you want to install the studs, and I got the stud installer tool from VB as well.

 

[JPSmit]

I believe I started at back and worked forwards. and I used Contact cement on the header rail

some instructions here:

https://www.mgexp.com/article/soft-top-midget.html

I think there are more if you google

 

[58Custom]

A good link: https://www.gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/topWS.htm

 

[Gerard]

With my current top literally disintegrating each time I put the roof up, and with November upon us, I decided it was time to put a new top on Baby Blue. I got the old top off without too much fuss. Of course, there were no installation instructions with the new top. I have three questions this evening:

1. Is it better to install from the header (Front) and work your way back, or start from the rear and work your way forward?

2. When I removed the old top, there was spray adhesive put on the header. Is this necessary? Good idea? Bad idea?

3. Any other pointers you can share to make this an easier job?

I do know about marking the top with chalk on the spots that you want to install the studs, and I got the stud installer tool from VB as well.

I've personally done this installation 3 times. Twice with vinyl, and once with a Stayfast top.

1. Work from the back to the front. I always work from the center outwards.
2. You will need adhesive on the header rail.
3. I don't know what year car you have, so I con't be more specific.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

And it needs to be warm when installing in order to get it tight but not too tight or you won't be able to unlatch or latch. Normally done in sun on a warm day to get the wrinkles out. Owners manual advises do not put up/down in temps under 60 degrees. I think that was to save the rear window.

 

[nomad]

Like to add that the first thing I have done is to carefully mark the center of the top front and back and the same on the car. Keeping it centered is critical. For the tenax fasteners I made up a little punch out of a sharpened piece of tubing that I used against some old magazines to cut the holes. For the snap's I have an old leather punch. The kind with the rotating head that I am sure you have seen before. However you do the holes for the fasteners they must be done carefully or, if too big, they will pull out.
I have a couple of used top's that I have been going to e-bay but not sure if they may be dry rotted to the point that they aren't worth fitting.

Kurt.

 

[SaxMan]

Good links and good advice. My webbing had long since rotted away...didn't even realize that was missing.

My Sprite is a '69. Guess I'll have to warm up the garage a few degrees to do the install.

 

[SaxMan]

So far, so good. I decided to use 2" velcro straps (smooth side on top) for my webbing. It looks pretty good, almost like it's supposed to be there. The rear of the top is now properly centered and secured. I saved the bar, but got all new hardware to secure it. The awl was invaluable for making decent screw holes.

I'll get to the front tomorrow evening.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Get it warm when you fasten the front. And get it done soon. Cold coming your way with first snow light dusting coming to Dayton tomorrow night.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Just curious... What brand top are you installing.

 

[SaxMan]

I went with the Robbins vinyl top through Victoria British. I didn't need anything fancy, just something I can button up should I get caught out on the road when it starts to rain. Top down is the "default" position for this car!

 

[Trevor Jessie]

OK ... I'm fitting an EZ-ON top (the cheapest thing I could find) to my budget midget project. It has some design flaws and I think I may have been better off going with a Robbins or Prestige. The guy at EZ-ON was responsive and sent a new top for the one that was the wrong dimension, but there it still a design flaw that makes fastening the tenax fasteners nearly impossible.

 

[SaxMan]

I don't know what my previous top was, but the Robbins is identical in just about every dimension. So far, it's measuring out be a decent fit. I'm heading into the garage now to work on mounting the front end of the top. I'll let the adhesive set overnight and then install the snaps tomorrow.

 

[nomad]

I sprung for an EZ-ON with zip out rear window for my 65 as well. Some flaw's but the wife wanted a zip out rear window and they supplied so I am living with it. Original top go's up in a flash....NOS Adco I replaced it with almost as fast...this one slow and tedious. Can't see out the window's on the original anymore and NOS top has no zip out feature. Very nice to have when its 100 degrees out!
Too late to recommend now but for anyone else the zip-out rear window is worth considering.

Kurt.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

One the one I installed on Bugsy I, I could not get rear widow to have that really drum type tight fix. Top came from UK. 4-5 years never drove with top up and window unzipped. Top was down 95% of the time.

 

[smaceng]

2nd the notion that the top should only be installed on a hot day......like why would you need a hood on a hot day? Also a heat gun can provide that extra heat if done carefully. For my BE, I was sure the top provided was too small.....it just had to be warmed up until I could get it to fit. Scott in CA

 

[SaxMan]

2nd the notion that the top should only be installed on a hot day......like why would you need a hood on a hot day? Also a heat gun can provide that extra heat if done carefully. For my BE, I was sure the top provided was too small.....it just had to be warmed up until I could get it to fit. Scott in CA

Wouldn't it make more sense to install it on a cooler day? If the top is a snug fit when it is warm, it may be an absolute bear to get the snaps to close up when the weather is cool, when you would most likely have the top up. I know with my previous top I was finding it nearly impossible to snap up when the temps dropped below 55 degrees. That being said, I probably won't be able to finish up tonight as we're having a cold snap that is going lower the temps in the garage to below 50 degrees. I'll have to wait a couple of days for this cold spell to pass.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If the top is a little "flappy" on a hot days, then you can slip a bit of foam pipe insulation over the bars. I fit my top when the garage was about 60 degrees, but sat a space heater in the car to keep the material workable. Fits OK. I need to add a few snaps and such to finish the job.

 

[SaxMan]

I went to install the weatherstrip on the header and it turned out the new weatherstip was not the right one (or, more likely, my top mechanism had bent over time) and the top would not close with this strip. As much as it pained me to do so, I put the old weatherstripping back in. That worked and the top closes. Depending on how taut the roof becomes once the snaps are installed, it looks like I may have not taken in enough material at the front and the top will be a bit flappy. With the front already glued down, I guess my option is to undo the rear retaining bar and tighten it up that way (without it looking too obnoxious), or go the foam roller route. I guess I'll have to see where I end up.

 

[nomad]

Wouldn't it make more sense to install it on a cooler day? If the top is a snug fit when it is warm, it may be an absolute bear to get the snaps to close up when the weather is cool, when you would most likely have the top up. I know with my previous top I was finding it nearly impossible to snap up when the temps dropped below 55 degrees. That being said, I probably won't be able to finish up tonight as we're having a cold snap that is going lower the temps in the garage to below 50 degrees. I'll have to wait a couple of days for this cold spell to pass.

As you have found out there is some debate over installation. Frank C, who sadly has passed, but was a real spridget guru thought the top should not be installed tightly on a hot day for exactly the reason you mention.

Kurt.