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TR2/3/3A technique for installing a door


Country flag
Would someone care to share their technique for installing a door? I usually install them alone with a scissor jack on the floor to help hold the weight. It gets difficult sometime that way.



Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
As I recall, I just held the door up with one hand while putting in two screws (one top and one bottom) with the other hand. You can use long bolts at first, to make them easier to turn by hand. Once the two long bolts are in, the door can hang on them while you install the others.
Obviously don't try to close the door until you've removed the long ones.

Oh yeah, I attached hinges to the door first. I'm not sure that's important, just seemed like the way to do it.
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Country flag
Well yes that is what I basically do also; I do put a couple of drift pins in to help jockey the captive nuts around. I thought maybe people had figured out a way that would be friendlier with new paint. I am always up for a good idea. Perhaps some thread-all in the A post screw hole or something. But, I do seem to be doing ok the way I do it.


Jedi Knight
Country flag
It is more work. But if you are concerned about new paint and willing to go the extra mile. You could make up a set of threaded pins to go into the A post, one top and one bottom and set/ slide the door onto the longer threaded pins. Then place the screws in place and replace the pins with the regular screws. Like Randall says I always place the hinges on the door first and the A post last.
I have had the doors on and off the body I am working on maybe 20 times over the last year. My normal method is to start with one screw in the top hinge and then get one in the bottom hinge. But I have no paint on this body tub yet. The door is light enough to hold with one hand while working the screws with the other.


Country flag
I lay a towel over the sill until I snug the bolts. If I plan on doing a lot of trial and error, I also use fat masking tape along the edges of the door and surround to protect the paint. It's definitely one of the "fiddlier" jobs on the car.

Reminds me of a story...I flew with a guy a couple years ago, and it turned out he was into Mopars. I mean this guy was REALLY into Mopars. With no kids, he had built a world class shop and a real paint booth. He even took in jobs. Not by advertising, but just word of mouth, which means he was good. He said he charges between $25-30k for a paint job, and turns away more jobs than he takes at that price. For the "Bullet" movie 50 year anniversary he put together a Bullet Mustang replica that auctioned for $150k. We are both pretty much self taught, using books and lots of questions at the paint suppliers over many years. The first thing that amazed me is that, when we compared notes...we both used the same paints, supplies, and techniques! I was hoping to pass some good techniques between us, but they were essentially the same...what I have documented in the bodywork thread. What made me think of the story, though, is he was finishing up a pickup truck for his neighbor, and the neighbor wanted to come help with the assembly. Installing the doors and such. He took my number and had me come over to help...as he was scared to death the owner would run a door or hood over another panel and ruin the new paint!! I came over and we put the parts on in a couple hours, before the owner could show up...win win in the end. The finish was preserved and the look of the truck made the owner as happy as if he helped.

The moral is, it's not difficult, but it is a precise job. You must plan the install by laying out your tools and have an idea what order you are going to install bolts and such. Once you pick up the door to fit it, you have already done the install in a dry run in your mind. Having no help makes the planning that much more important. Best of luck!


Country flag
You are probable going to be installing the doors multiple times before you are finished.

Hinges on the doors first.
I would do one or 2 screws in the top hinge while the bottom hinge kind of rested against the lip on the "A" post as I lightly tightened the top screws. Then screws in the bottom hinge. You will probable be adding some shims to get the gaps right.

Lots of patience and care.

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