TR2/3/3A How would you value this TR3?

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #1

Hi folks. I have been offered the TR3 in the attached pictures. It looks like the engine has had some work done, but no receipts. Sections of the body have rust that has eaten through the panel, but overall she seems pretty solid and most of the rust is surface.

She'll need a complete interior, clutch and brakes hydraulics at a minimum.

 

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J

jayhawk

Jedi Warrior

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #2

Re: How would you valve this TR3?

Does it "run and drive?"
You know considerably more than we do but appearances and the part you mentioned "sections of the body have rust that has eaten through" makes me worried about hidden rust and lots of work... so I'd value it pretty low based on what we know here.

 

PeterK

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #3

Re: How would you valve this TR3?

also based on the look of the chrome and grill, it's be outside w/o care for extended period. it's just an indication/caution as to the true condition of the rest of the car. a GREAT parts car though and could be made into a driver for a few $k.

 

OP

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #4

Re: How would you valve this TR3?

It does not run - carbs need a rebuild. The former older owned her for a long time and was, how shall I say this, "handy" as you can see from the piping.

The trunk floor is OK, and panels are all there but will need some smoothing and localized patching.



Driver floor pan is OK-ish, passenger side has a new pan that will need to be fit and welded.

 

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jsneddon

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #5

Re: How would you valve this TR3?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif That's one way to eliminate the "TR3 Sweaty Butt Syndrome"

I've seen parts cars worse than that go for 2k on ebay.... but I wouldn't pay more than $500.... but that's just me.

you might read Tony's essay on buying an MG for some tips on haggling.

https://www.theautoist.com/buying_an_mg.htm

The guy who talks money first is the loser. How much do _you_ want to pay?

it's a tough thing to say. do you want to spend 40K for a 20K trailer queen or do you want to spend 10K and have a decent runner when it is all said and done?

 

OP

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #6

I'm focused on driving them!

 

tomshobby

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #7

Re: How would you valve this TR3?

I would say it depends on if you need to haul it and how far you need to go. Probably 50 cents per mile and a hundred bucks or so for your time. How much is he willing to pay?

Just kidding. If it has a good title it can be worth a few hundred. You might find an even better car with no title pretty reasonable and marry them.

 

Harry_Ward

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #8

I just wanted to know what all the fancy duct work is all about? I can't imagine it's to keep the passanger compartment cool unless he throws a bucket of ice in there? Maybe he wanted more heat for the winter? The value for me because I own a 3A already would be $500.00 to $1,500.00 U.S. dollars if the engine only needed a carb rebuild to run. Check the sills and front and rear posts for rust through while your at it chances are they will be eaten away as well if the floor is gone. Only the buyer can determine the value depending on how badly you want it. Also remember their not making any more of them as far as I know.

 

Andrew Mace

Moderator

Staff member

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #9

I'm with you, Harry. What I can see in the picture looks as if it might well be at least a $1500 car in today's market...probably more if you're willing to work with the buyer to help arrange shipping back to the UK or other parts of Europe!

 

PeterK

Yoda

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #10

notice the valve cover is on backwards too. engine is ... well... yuk!

 

Andrew Mace

Moderator

Staff member

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #11

I don't believe you can fit a TR valve cover backwards. Presumably, it (and maybe the rest of the motor) is early TR4.

 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 12, 2006

• #12

wow... beat me to it Andy. I'd agree to the tr4 motor- mine looks exactly the same with a TR4 motor. Slant of the valve cover only goes on one way. I'd bet it's got a syncro 1st gear too. Obviously the motor was out to pick up that nice coat of red paint. Doesn't really matter in the whole scheme of things but you can use it for a barganing chip.

I'm such a cretin that I'd buy it for 500 and drive it as-is with a garbage-pick seat bolted to whatever floorboard or sheet of plywood I could find /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

paint-schmaint... It's still a kick in the pants to drive!

 

S

sammyb

Luke Skywalker

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #13

Given the rust and the absolute certainty that the wiring, hydraulics, interior and panels will need major work -- I'd guess you wouldn't want to spend more than $1000. Although if you want this car, and you're up for the challenge, don't let value guides (or us) sway you.

Just make sure the frame is straight and rust free, otherwise you're biting off a big, expensive project.

 

Banjo

Yoda

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #14

Is it a 62? I could only get one picture to come up, so I'm just going by hearsay from these guys on the engine. But check the commission number (plaque on the right side firewall under the hood) and see if the com# starts with TCF. If so it was a TR3B.
A bit more valuable and rare but it's still a total project. Personally, Ive seen several cars in that condition go for $1000-2000. Personally I'd like to keep it at $1000.
The TR4 valve cover still slants the same way as a 3 cover (twards the carbs), the filler is just in the back instead of up front. (but like I said I coulden't see the engine pic)

 

PeterK

Yoda

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #15

didn't think about the valve cover slant (we have alloy covers). could just be an early 4 valve cover on a 3 motor. best to check the head number, exhaust manifold, etc.

<=$1000 seems to be fair but be prepared to spend to get it on the road. maybe you could buy a parts car for the parts car!

 

OP

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #16

The seller was thinking closer to $5,500!

Thanks everyone.

 

Mickey Richaud

Moderator

Staff member

Gold

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #17

[ QUOTE ]
The seller was thinking closer to $5,500!

Thanks everyone.

[/ QUOTE ]

He'd better think some more! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif

 

Andrew Mace

Moderator

Staff member

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #18

Quite honestly, if one does a bit of shopping and has some patience, it is still very possible to find presentable and driveable cars for $5,500, which is about what it would cost to do a quickie mechanical and interior freshening and a "10-footer" body/paint job on the car you're looking at. $1500-2000 to buy it and $3500-4000 to spend judiciously (with you as the no-salary labor for the most part) to make it a "driver"! And another sidescreen car is saved for the road /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif rather than parted out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

 

OP

T

tdskip

Yoda

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #19

One advantage of buying a beat up car is that sine it requires so much putting right at least you really truly know the condition since you have been the one to get it back and running... but this one is too far gone for me I think.

If anyone else is interested I can pass the seller info along. He is a good guy, and I got my TR4a from him.

 

jerrybny

Jedi Knight

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• Jun 13, 2006

• #20

as Tom Watson of IBM use to say THINK just me 2 cents worth