Tune up / Maintenance question

[mikeamondo]

Super quick question.... going to do basic tune up stuff... coolant flush, oil change, plugs.... Anything special needed here? Any particular oil needed, certain plugs to get?

I know this info is likely on here somewhere, but I did search and couldn't find it....

Thanks!
M

 

[JPSmit]

yes. you need oil with ZDDP for flat tappet engines, so, I would stay away from synthetic (it is available but you won't drive that much)

Diesel engine oil works as does motorcycle oil but you can still get regular oils also I use Castrol GTX. I also use 1/4 lucas oil stabilizer - I know there is debate about additives but I find it increases the oil pressure just a bit.

Plugs are available but use the proper ones.

It might be worth getting the rad properly flushed (and the engine for that matter) as the cooling systems were never awesome and 50 years take their toil.

(others on the board do Bugeyes have the issue where they need the longer rad cap? - someone else can answer)

 

[mikeamondo]

Thanks for info! What are the 'proper' plugs for the car?.... it's a 1275, not the original 948. I've already checked the radiator cap style, at it's correct. The car is running slightly hotter than I'd like... creeping north of 200. The coolant in there looks a little old.... or a lot old. My guess is it's 5+ years or even more. I figured new fluid and flush is the starting point.

And are you referring to the regular Castrol GTX off the shelf at my local Advance?

y

Plugs are available but use the proper ones.


(others on the board do Bugeyes have the issue where they need the longer rad cap? - someone else can answer)

 

[Trevor Jessie]

You really need to get a shop manual, for engine oil I use Valvoline VR1 20w50.
For plugs, just go to the parts store and ask them for plugs for a 1970 MG Midget. Nothing special.

 

[nomad]

I prefer NGK for plugs and yes a BE requires the deep reach radiator cap. Agree with Trevor. A shop manual covers all that stuff plus lube intervals.

 

[mikeamondo]

Cool... I bought NGK's! Changed the fluid and upper and lower hoses. Took the car for a short drive but long enough to heat up... may have dropped a few degrees... it was pretty hot still (outside) and he didn't go over 200.... plugs and oil are next up....

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Odd. Tune-up involves plugs, points, condensor, rotor, set dwell and timing, replace fuel filter, inspect and/or clean air filter. Adjust carb(s).
Coolant flush is....coolant flush. Oil and filter is...oil and filter.

As far as ZDDP being necessary...I run flat tappet on the Jag and both flathead Fords. I have NEVER used an additive. Rebuilt two of them (one due to 300K and the other due to the clueless last person in). I have NEVER had a lifter or cam issue.

Like "OMG! You have to tear your engine down for hardened valve seats!". Yeah, if they are cast into cast iron heads, or known to be non-hardened. Jag is not changed....who knows how many miles...when I fixed the scrXw-ups, lapped the valves and that was it. I have never had a burned valve/eroded seat on the Flatheads. Ever.

 

[Sarastro]

OK, here I go with my usual harangue....

This hangup with ZDDP has gone way farther than it every should have. Almost all oils, including most of the (infamous) "starburst" ones, have adequate ZDDP, and virtually all in the viscosities we use (like, 20W50) have more than enough. You especially don't need ta ZDDP additive, and, in fact, adding extra without calculating the final concentration could cause engine damage. It's easy to get so focused on the ZDDP issue that you are tempted to do something really inadvisable, like using diesel oil, with is just not formulated for passenger cars.

Here is my take on the subject: https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf

And an article from a GM oil expert: https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oil_myths.pdf

As for hardened seats, I suspect they might be prudent for an engine used for extended periods at fairly high speeds (like, freeway driving) but for most of our cars, which don't get that kind of use, I think you can confidently get by without them. As with the ZDDP, the need is likely overstated by familiarity and repetition.

 

[David_Doan]

Isn’t ZDDP primarily needed for break-in of a flat tappet engines vs continuous use?