The next project...the tune up

[AUSMHLY]

Well guys, I'd like to thank you all for your help, advise and ear bending through my 3 year restoration. She's done.

And to think it all started with a simple let's just block and sand her paint job. That's how it stated with me. While in the body shop, I found out about the BCF and became a member. Then it was, oh we should repair this while we're at it. Oh and let's correct this and that is wrong too. No good deed goes unpunished they say. So thanks to all my friends here on the BCF, for taking away my pain. My back pain, for my wallet does not put a strain on my back now that it's empty.

The next project..keep her on the road and as problem free as can be. I do plan on driving her every chance I get. She is not a trailer queen. More like a show car. Yes, as in I will show her everywhere I go. The supermarket, the beach, shopping and to the ATM for mad money (gas).

The more time I spend with my Healey, the more I find myself comfortable working on her. Well, with your help, thank you.
Any of us tune our own cars?
I've been told that synchronizing the carbs may be the hardest part?

I see products like a "Carburetor Synchronizer" and a "Synchrometer" in the usual catalogs.
I see a "Gunson's Colortune" too.

Being I am willing to throw myself under the bus yet again and take on a new learning curve, someone, anyone, Randy, talk me out of it.

I've got a lot of the tools on the peg board that I purchased during my restoration and they keep staring at me. Even though I hardly have any space left on that board, I know I can find room to put the new tools that I'll need. What, you think your done working on the Healey? Yeah, like, you think you have all the right tools and you don't need anymore? Photo of peg board attached.

Roger...that.

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Roger,
Once things are set up, there isn't really much to "tune up". I think more harm than good can come from needless adjusting & replacing. This is just my take on the subject. I'm sure that other folks may disagree.

Plug gaps should be checked/set to .025" to .030" maybe every 15,000 miles, plugs replaced at 30,000 miles. Plug wires, distributor caps & rotors should last nearly forever, as should condensers. If these parts are not causing trouble, you may just replace them with defective new parts. It happens a lot.

If you have points, the gap should be checked for .015" every 5,000 miles & reset if more than + or - .002" out of spec. A drop of oil on the distributor advance spindle wick occasionally.

Timing could be checked maybe every 5,000 miles but should not change if point gap is correct.

Check valve lash every 15,000 miles but don't reset things unless it is more than + or - .002" out of spec. A NEW cam & lifters should be checked much more frequently during the break in period.

It's easy to check carb sync by just removing the damper caps & listening to the air sound via a small hose. Once set, it should stay the same for a long time. Fuel idle mixture & idle speed can easily be set by following the shop manual. Once set further changes should not be needed.

Clean/replace the fuel filter once in a while. Check drive belt tension occasionally.

All of this is covered in the shop manual, & can be done quickly. A timing light, feeler gage & a few common tools is all that is really needed.
D

 

[GregW]

Hi Roger,
I think the next tool you should get is one of those big aluminum racing floor jacks, anodized red of course. It would add a nice contrast to the cool color pallet you have chosen for the garage. Definitely help with the oil changes, checking brake wear etc. and making the wallet lighter yet again.

 

[Dave Russell]

The quick lift racing jacks require a surprisingly hard push on a long handle to lift a car. Hydraulic mechanical advantage is sacrificed to gain the quick lift. They are, however, one of the few jacks that is low enough to get under a Healey & have a long enough reach to get far enough under to contact the frame or axle. Healeys have a lot of overhang.

Practically indispensable once you use one a few times. The side "carry handles" are always in the way but are easily removed. The only other problem is the tiny front roller diameter which refuses to roll over the slightest obstacle. But this is the feature that allows the jack to get under the very low car parts.

Definitely very handy.
D

 

[AUSMHLY]

Thank you Dave for taking the time to explain all the above.
As far as the jack goes Dave, Greg, I agree.
Right after I got my car back, I realized how much I needed a good jack. Hight was in issue. I bought Craftsman's.
Here's a link to it.
https://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.d...UseBVCookie=Yes
Roger

 

[bighly]

Roger,

Do not waste your money on the color tunes and carb syncronizers.

Just get a set of those airline headphones that are tubes. Frees up your hands and gives you stereo when balancing carbs. Don't ask me how to get a set of these headphones, your on your own there.

Oh and BTW. If the car runs well do not adjust the carbs.

 

[Keoke]

Well BH, the synchronizers are very useful when tuning. The downside being you have to remove the air cleaners to use it. OTOH, I agree the color tunes are of lesser value. The standard SU tuning kit available from Moss and others is probably the best all around handy tuning aid available. ---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[BlueRidge2]

Wow, You car and garage are a true inspiration. Makes me want to soldier on towards my goals. Enjoy

 

[tahoe healey]

Don't forget the million grease fittings that get dry all the time. An easy DIY if you can find them all.

 

[BobHorvath]

I can't speak for carb stability as I have none. Lots of good info on parts to replace, which I have yet to do. Being electric man, I suggest a good timing light with a pre configured advance. I am amazed at how many otherwise good mechanics overlook their spark distribution system. Send your distributor to Jeff @ advanced distributor if you have not allready done so, install or have him install a pertronix replacement $75 for the rebuild and $100 for the Pertronix. Set your timing for 35deg full advance @4000 rpm and then hange your new timing light on the wall.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Don't forget the million grease fittings that get dry all the time. An easy DIY if you can find them all.

Ah yes, those easy to get to grease fittings.
Currently, here's what I do to stay on top of things.
1. Change oil/filter
2. Grease all the fittings/front wheel bearings
3. Clean the air filters
4. Change the coolant
5. Watch the brake/clutch fluid level
6. Tire pressure
7. Tire alignment
9. Tire rotation
10.Check transmittion fluid level
11.Check belt condition/tension
12.Wipe up oil drippings from Healey
13,Keep gas tank full, boy that needle swings
14.Drive the car, good for her, good for me

Reason for this topic, I bet I can do the tune up, thought the little red train as he looked at the hill.

Feel free to ad to my list of things I should stay on top of. I'm sure I can fit it into the honeydo list.

 

[Johnny]

I have to agree with Dave. Your best advise would be to enjoy the car, pay attention to sounds it does talk to you. Bumps and grinds all should sound the same. If not, something has probably just loosened up. I've always found the rear shocks, and in my case, the two battery hold downs seem to loosen up, also the fuel pump from time to time. Easy to fix and now easy to notice.
Good luck

 

[tahoe healey]

Johnny,I've had the same issue with the rear shocks. I changed to a different type lock washer (star or external tooth)and added a second nut tight against the first. It seems fine now.
TH

 

[Dave Russell]

This is somewhat out of the "tuneup" realm but worth some attention.

I think the rear shock mounts have pretty much the same problem as the front ones, only worse.

The shock body mount tabs are not very large & relatively soft aluminum. No matter how tight the bolts are, the aluminum will indent enough to release the bolt tension a bit. When this is combined with the limited wrench clearance around the bolt heads on the rear shocks, it's hard to get things tight.

I've had success by using hardened washers againt the aluminum, star washers, & high grade socket head bolts. The bolt shanks need to be a snug fit in the shock body holes to help positively locate the shocks on the mounts. If the soft shock body mount holes are worn, they can be precision bored & steel sleeves presed in to make the body mounts a snug fit on the bolts. Obviously, the mount holes in the rear steel shock mount plates should also be restored to normal size if they are worn from loose shocks moving on the plates.

I still periodically check for 35 lb/ft torque on the bolts but have never had a shock loosen. The front shock mounts were done in the same manner.
D

 

[Ed_K]

Roger,
Your garage looks as nice as some of the rooms in my house. I guess it's time to fix up my garage to give it a little more class so it will better match my Healey. Maybe coat the floor with some of that epoxy finish to make it easier to clean up
where my Healey " marks it's territory ".
....
Reading your list reminds me that I need to figure out where ALL of those lubrication places are. I know they are all important but have not found/lubricated them all yet.
....
The problem with Aluminum that Dave is talking about is the reason why aluminum wire should never be used for anything in a house IMHO.
Ed

 

[Keoke]

Hi ED, Better yet lower the number of the grease fittings; use new all sealed rod ends and U joints.--Fwiw--Keoke