TR4/4A Difficulty Level with specific maintenance TR4

[scottkilpatrick]

Hi I am new here and have just taken ownership of my dream car a 1962 TR4 - no overdrive.

There are numerous things I am doing right off the bat to sort of set a baseline since I didn’t get any maintainance records. What I’ve done so far:



1. Oli and Filter drain and refill


2. Diff/Axel oil drain and refill


3. Gearbox oil drain and refill


There were two items up next that I was thinking about addressing

1. Radiator drain, flush and refill

The more I research on this the more I am not sure if its a good idea or the complexity. Opinions welcome.


2. Brakes/Clutch master cylinder drain/refill

I know nothing of how to do this, if its a good idea and the level of difficulty.

I was also planning on changing the brake pads while doing this and again not sure of the difficulty.


When I apply the brakes they seem to work fine (squeak due to dirt or whatever), the pedal slowly sinks down and then when I let up they seems to start over at the top of pressure - not sure if that makes sense or is clear or if that’s normal.


Opinions welcome. Thanks all

 

[bobhustead]

Flushing the cooling system doesn't do much to remove scale and such. However changing the coolant should be done once in a while. To do it, remove the top radiator hose from the thermostat housing. If you have a thermostat, take it out temporarily and put the housing back on. Put a garden hose in the radiator hose, turn it on and start the car. When the water runs clear, shut it off. Take the bottom hose off the radiator and open the block drain valve if you can to drain the system of pure water. Reassemble all and refill with coolant. If you can't get the block drain open, don't worry about it. Just refill the system with coolant. Given your climate, you should not need the precise 50/50 water to antifreeze mix to max out freezing protection.
You brake system issue is a failing master cylinder. It needs to be replaced. Since you have to ask about the complexity of brake work, hire it done.

Bob

 

[charleyf]

I have never considered myself lazy, but I change the antifreeze by opening the drain on the bottom of the radiator, remove the radiator cap and open the block drain located below and behind the rear carb. Close all drains, refill with water and run engine until it gets warm . Open drains again. Then close drains again. As the system retains some fluid and takes about 2 gallons, I start the refill with one gallon of undiluted antifreeze. Then use water to complete the refill. After some running check your fluid level. You often get some air in the system which needs to work its out. The fluid needs to be about 1" below the filler neck. If you get it to high it will get purged during running.

I find removing the various hoses to be a major PITA.
I only change brake and clutch fluids when something happens to cause the need. Or almost never. But I do live in a very dry area.
Charley

 

[bobhustead]

Scott
You should get a shop manual. I use the Haynes. Charley is of course right about the drain and refill procedure. The drains, though, can be tretty obstinate if they haven't been opened in some time. My post is in response to your wanting something that looks like a flush.

Bob

 

[scottkilpatrick]

Thanks both. Let me chew on this and I will get back with a few more questions maybe if needed. Thanks again both - very helpful. I have the haynes and the triumph manual.

 

[bobhustead]

And Charley
Anybody who dedicated major time to figure out that somebody had put the "slightly" wrong float bowls on a TR6 does not suffer from laziness. I would've put a rag in the filler neck and lit it long before I got to the solution.
Bob

 

[poolboy]

Bleeding the brake and clutch hydraulics on your car won't be any different than any other car that I'm aware of. There must be a YouTube demonstration....as well as what you can read here:

5 ways to bleed your brakes: Get the air out - Hagerty Media

For all of you DIYers, we've put together five ways to get bleed old brake fluid and air from the system and replace with fresh stuff.

www.hagerty.com

 

[mctriumph]

On a car with no knowns, I would replace ALL of the brake system components ASAP. Don't
forget the flex lines
Many LBC's have died from weak hydraulics. Safety first!! Other maintenance items are much less critical IMHO.
Start it out on a nice firm petal!
Mad dog

 

[KVH]

I also have some suggestions. First, TR4s are amazing cars. You won't regret owning one so long as it's a good baseline to start--not terribly abused, modified, or neglected, decent body, etc. But start off with the Shop Manual. The TR4 has a manual that is simply incredible. I'm not sure Triumph, Standard Triumph or British Leyland ever published a better one. It's Publication Part No. 510322. About 350 pages long. I'll never cease being amazed by the detail and clarity of that manual. It's no Haynes manual. It's the official Standard Triumph Manual. Just awesome.

Focus on safety and big items. Get a couple of good low profile floor jacks, and low profile (small car) jack stands so you can safely work on the car. For me, the first focus would be the brakes. I'd replace or at least check all brake pads and shoes, and bleed the brakes with a buddy to depress the pedals (clutch and brake). I am done wasting time with funky one-man bleeder tools and so-called vacuum venturi systems. Just grab a human being and do it the old-fashioned way. I replaced my front brake calipers after seeing they were so rusty, but purists here may say I went overboard and should have restored the originals. Too late now. I'd also recommend you get rid of the rubber brake hoses in both the front and rear and replace with steel reinforced, braided hoses. I've seen some shocking leaks from rubber hoses just cracking and failing. Nip it in the bud.

My next focus would be shocks and front suspension bushings and maybe even the springs. This is all easy stuff if you have the manual, but you'll also want to buy a spring compressor from Moss or elsewhere. Indispensable. Doing the front suspension correctly will also require you invest in a good ball joint "popper" tool. Don't even think of using a pickle fork and hammer. You'll also want a similar tool, but shaped differently, to separate the tie-rods end pieces from the control arms. Both tools are readily available from Moss, BPNW and your local auto shop, but make sure you are buying a good heavy forged steel tool and not some cheap junk--I had one tool just break in half. I sat under my car in disbelief. As for the front end bushing kits, carefully review the Moss catalogue and buy the upgraded neoprene or other composite material for the control arm bushings. All rubber won't last.

BTW, getting the inner, lower control arm bushings out and the new ones in, can be quite a chore. I used a press, some vice tools, etc. to do it, and it took at least .5 hours for each inner lower bushing. I'd rate that as rather tough and tedious. Definitely something where you'll want to take your good old time to get right. No banging or anything like that. A trip to a good used tool shop can be helpful, too.

A thought. You may need rebuild kits for your brake and clutch master cylinders. Or entirely new ones. Up to you. I prefer new ones these days. Level of difficulty. Not bad. Have paper towels ready for any spilled fluid, and carefully look at how the cylinders attach to the pedals. The trickiest part is accessing the nuts and bolts for removal and reinstallation. For me, it simply couldn't be done without short open end and box wrenches, and very small ratchet/socket sets. You need to get in an under the pushrods, etc., so it just takes time. Small ratchet extension pieces may also be needed.

All for now, but my first order of priority would be that Manual, and I'd read it like a suspense novel. Seriously, read it. Great cars.

KVH

 

[mezy]

Allways refil coolent with the correct amount of antifreeze even in frost free areas, as it has a rust inhibiter in it not just to stop it freezing, it will also stop sludging up with rusty gunk.

 

[Andrew Mace]

Allways refil coolent with the correct amount of antifreeze even in frost free areas, as it has a rust inhibiter in it not just to stop it freezing, it will also stop sludging up with rusty gunk.

And the proper coolant mix will raise the boiling point as well as lower the freezing point!