Used my Color Tune for the 1st time. Sweet!

[Got_All_4]

What a tool! Bought this probably 4 years ago and finally took the time tonight to use it on the TR3. It actually took no time at all. After a carb balance I replaced the # 1 sparking plug with the glass one provided in the kit. Right after start up I could see plain as day the yellow ring of combustion fire. A few adjustments on the SU jet and you can watch the combustion go from too rich to just right. 1/2 hour process at best.

You could hear the changes in the engine as your adjusting the jets. Smother idle and quick response on the throttle. I actually had to bump up the idle a bit to keep it running. The plugs were so sooted up and hope this cures my fowling plug problem. The true test will be driving it. Won't be able to do that till the latter part of the week after i get my tyres installed (Vanderstines) on my newly painted wheels.

If too lean I'll just keep turning the jet nut a 1/4 turn to richen it up until the power comes back.

 

[tdskip]

Kind of fun, eh?

 

[Got_All_4]

When it all comes together!

 

[CraigLandrum]

I bought one also, but was not able to get down to the "just turning blue" color while still keeping the TR3 running, even with idle adjustments. However, I just rebuilt my carbs so maybe I'll try again. Also, what does everyone typically set their idle to? I've never been able to set it below 1000, and it idles best at 1200. Tips appreciated...

 

[TR3driver]

IMO, set it where it works. Mine wanders all around anyway, depending on conditions.

Another thought is the accuracy of the tach. It's not unusual to find them reading 1000 rpm instead of 500.

 

[emmett1010]

I got so aggravated at mine, that I broke down and installed new throttle shafts.
Major improvement- It now idles at 7-800 no problem
Emmett

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Mine wanders all around anyway, depending on conditions.[/QUOTE]

So does mine (not a TR3) and fuel conditions play a role in that too.

 

[DNK]

Paul, Maybe yours has to do with that full race cam in it!

 

[Got_All_4]

Yep. A full race cam is not made to idle. Craig I'll bet you have a leaky throttle shaft too. A full rebuild should have been replaced. Spray some brake or carb cleaner around the throttle shafts while the car is running and note if the rpms change. If they do your shaft is leaking. If they were replaced and is still leaking then the carb body is worn out. I believe they can be reamed out and a larger shaft is available.

My idle is also set at 800. It's hard to believe but it will sometimes idle at 400 rpm. I think I set mine at 1000rpms to make the adjustments.

 

[DNK]

Yep. A full race cam is not made to idle...

 

[CraigLandrum]

When I rebuilt the carbs, I closely inspected the throttle shafts, which I completely removed. One shaft had very slight wear, but neither of them had any looseness or play when installed. To be safe though, I reamed out the one with the slight wear, installed bushings and a new shaft per instructions recommended by the forum, and everything seems to be mated up to close tolerances. Zero wiggle, gaps, or ovaling now on both carbs. I'll use some carb cleaner and double check, but think the shafts are OK. Might be a leak elsewhere, though.