TR2/3/3A TR3 Oil Pan Gasket

[RedTR3]

One of my winter projects will be replacing the oil pan gasket. Anything in particular to watch out for here? Is it possible to damage the oil pump or anything else doing this job, or is it pretty straightforward?

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Geo Hahn]

I would call it straight-forward.

Some use a silicone gasket from Justin Wagner, a fine product by all accounts though I have not had a problem getting the usual stock gasket to seal.

This is a good "while I'm in here I might as well check..." that can lead to all kinds of interesting things.

 

[PeterK]

Biggest thing is not to overtighten the bolts when you put it back on. Use a cross pattern and tighten evenly to avoid bending the lip of the pan.

As far as the pan, clean the lip on the pan thoroughly with a wire brush, and examine any sludge or particles at the bottom of the pan. Clean in solvents and repaint the outside if you want.

Seal the gasket to the pan with Permatex non-hardening #2 or equivalent. Then add the same to the top side of the gasket, going INSIDE the bolt holes as you pass them. Careful not to usee too much gasket cement to avoid it falling inside the pan when you install it.

Not a tough job, unless you're the one on your back on a greasy garage floor.

... and don't forget to drain your oil FIRST!!!

 

[Russ Austin]

George; I thought Justin had Silcone Valve Cover Gasket, not oil pan gasket.

 

[RonMacPherson]

IMHO, I learned a looooong time ago, that any time I install oil pan bolts, or valve cover bolts that mount around the edges. I put a dab of Loctite blue on clean threads, torque them to specs, but not overly tight and never worry about bolt(s) loosening up again. But when I need to remove them(bearing replacement) they come easily.

 

[AweMan]

One thing to take a serious look at are the bolt holes on the pan flange. Through the course of tightening them, they become distorted. That is to say, they may not be entirely flat with the original surface of the pan. If this is the case the metal around the holes will be slightly protruding upwards. If they are, one can not tighten the bolts enough to make a good seal on the surfaces between the bolts. An easy fix is to place a small ball peen hammer {Ball side in the bolt hole from the engine side of the pan} and strike it with another hammer {Not too hard} to make the metal around the bolt hole slightly lower than the surface between the bolt holes. This will ensure that the torque is applied to the entire pan flange surface rather than just around the bolt surface.

 

[Geo Hahn]

George; I thought Justin had Silcone Valve Cover Gasket, not oil pan gasket.

I see by his website that you are correct. Did I just dream that he used to have a silcone oil pan gasket?

 

[Russ Austin]

George; I would love it if he did, I have always had problems with a leaking oil pan. I'm getting ready to try it again, I have followed the advice on the board to no avail, so try try again!

 

[PeterK]

One trick I heard, is to apply the gasket to the pan then set it on a piece of flat glass overnight for the gasket cement to set. It leaves a perfectly flat sealing surface ... well, supposedly. Same for VCG.

 

[Geo Hahn]

George; I would love it if he did...

Okay, I searched my personal archives and found that Justin did offer a sump gasket for the 3s & 4s in June 2002 on a 'field test' basis.

It was thicker than stock so one had to replace the stock bolts with longer ones... Justin offered a kit with aircraft bolts using safety wires, Loctite and lower torque to complete the installation.

No idea why he appears to have discontinued this... could be that demand was low or perhaps other issues arose among those who field tested it.