TR2/3/3A TR3 Oil Strainer Repair

[GerryL]

The area where the screen for the oil pump has been soldered is loose. What would be the proper way to approach the repair. Would you use use flux and regular solder or use rosin core solder?

 

[TR3driver]

I doubt that it matters. But I used flux and (lead) plumbing solder. I also followed a tip from Ken Gillanders and threaded loops of wire through the screen and around the pickup tube, to help support the screen and stop it from vibrating. Don't really know if it helped, but the screen showed no signs of breaking when I dropped the pan again a few years later.

BTW, new screens are available now. TRF P/N 100682, $30. Moss probably has them too.

 

[CJD]

Definitely NOT rosin core. Another option is brazing it with bronze for more strength, although a decent solder job will be fine.

 

[TR3driver]

What have you got against rosin core?

 

[GerryL]

Used regular solder and flux and job was completed better than new.

 

[CJD]

What have you got against rosin core?

I learned rosin for electrics, acid for mechanicals. In a pinch, I have tried rosin on mechanicals, but could not get it to bond...have you found a trick?

 

[TR3driver]

I learned rosin for electrics, acid for mechanicals. In a pinch, I have tried rosin on mechanicals, but could not get it to bond...have you found a trick?

Only trick I know is the same as for electrical stuff; the surfaces have to be clean and free from dirt, oil, oxide, etc. Acid flux is better at cutting through oxide than rosin, but that's the only difference IMO.

I've been experimenting with using Tarn-X to cut through oxides on old copper, but still don't know what the long term effects will be. I'm hoping that, unlike acid flux, the Tarn-x chemical quits working and doesn't lead to more corrosion in the long term.