Pertronix ignition question

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

Tried to install a new Pertronix ignition on my 76 B. I have the distributor with the external amplifier. I followed the directions but could not get the car to start. No spark from the distributor when I tested it for a spark. I tested the New flame thrower coil (1.5 ohms) got spark. A couple of things that I noticed when installling the ignition 1- I could not use the spacer because the rotor would fall off if used (rotor would set two high. 2- I noticed that the nuts on the studs that the ignition fits over will not hold the ignition down. The only thing that hold the ignition down is one screw. There is an air gap. I've read on another BBS that some Pertronix arrive DOA. Ive removed the pertronix ignition and re-installed the stock ignition and car runs. Is there a way to test the Pertronix ignition? Does anyone have a Picture of there set up that I can look at? Thanks Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

 

[JTB]

Not sure about your set up as I have a 69 B which does not have ballasted ignition. I too have a Pertronix that I bought several years ago and never installed...couldn't get it to work as you have experienced. So recently I got motivated to put it in again and bought 3.0 Ohm Flamethrower Coil from Pertronix ( I think your ballast gets you to that level of resistance if I am not mistaken) as they told me that is what resistance level the Ignitor needs. Here is the Ignitor testing procedure that a tech guy at Pertronix gave me:

Pertronix 800-827-3758
Bill Hoch extension # 30. After hours dial main number after answers, dial * then extension #. General Tech Extension is #25. Another tech person is on 31, don’t know name.

Unit # should be a LU142A (for my 69 B), if not call him back for different instructions.

If Pertronix is bad will take back, inspect and help out.

First:
1. Physically inspect
a. Burning or shrinking or crack of unit, plastic or label
b. Wires in good shape, not damaged, cracked or broken
2. Bench Test
a. Need Voltmeter, 9 volt battery, jumper wire
b. Connect jumper wire from (-) side of battery to aluminum plate on ignitor
c. Red wire of Voltmeter (VM) to (+) side of battery
d. Red wire of ignitor to (+) side of battery also
e. Black wire of ignitor & black wire of VM to together
f. Set meter on 20v DC scale
g. Taking magnet (circular part that fits over dizzy shaft) hold it low and close to ignitor and rotate it. Voltmeter should fluctuate from 0 to 9 volts and back as you rotate it, insuring that it is working.

Red wire prior to the ballast resistor….see instructions.

mail to:
440 E. Arrow Highway
San Dimas CA 91773

If these don't work or you want to check in with them directly give him a call. Very nice guy and quite helpful.

JTB

 

[rovernut]

Great JTB........
I bought one last year for my Rover 2000TC.......Same model LU142A......But it never worked in the car.....I didn,t know how to test it and of course didn,t return it .........I,ll dig it out and try testing it again.........Thanks for the info.......If it doesn,t work i,ll know who to call for advice now anyway

Thanks again
Bill Robertson /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[aeronca65t]

Here's some pics that may help:

https://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/ignition.shtml

 

[Bret]

Hi Bob,

I installed the Pertronix Ignition in my 78B a few years ago. First thing I noticed is that I was sent the wrong one for my ignition system. To use it would have required bypassing the ballast resistor and going with a normal (none ballast) coil. But I didn’t want to change anything so I sent back the original and got the correct Pertronix for my car.

In other words if you got the correct Pertronix for your B you shouldn’t have to change anything at all. The only thing you need to do is bypass the external amplifier and tuck it's two wires out of the way.

As for mounting my uses only one screw to hold it in place. So yours should be fine.

Next if the rotor won’t fit correctly it’s probably because you have a little ring from the old setup still sitting down in there. I suggest that you take another look. I had the exact same problem and had to use a set of fine nosed needle nosed plyers to get it out. Then everything fit just fine.

Once ya got it all together you need to next set the timing. This gets a little tricky as you will need to have a partner to turnover your car while you rotate the dizzy counter clockwise. I recommend moving it back about 20 or 30 degrees CCW before you start. Then rotate the distributor until it kicks over and can idle on it’s own.

Once your at that point it’s just a matter of re-setting your timing normally.

Also don’t forget to give some service loop to the ignition wire inside the rotor cap. To little or too much will throw off the cars timing.

Here is a link to some information on my installation:
Bret's Pertronix Project

Good luck!
Bret

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
Hi Bob,
Once ya got it all together you need to next set the timing. This gets a little tricky as you will need to have a partner to turnover your car while you rotate the dizzy counter clockwise. I recommend moving it back about 20 or 30 degrees CCW before you start. Then rotate the distributor until it kicks over and can idle on it’s own.

Once your at that point it’s just a matter of re-setting your timing normally.

Bret

[/ QUOTE ]
Bret,

Good advice. I'll add one thing:
To static time a pertronix Ignitor, place a voltmeter across the coil terminals. Very slowly rotate the engine in the forward direction & the voltmeter will drop to zero at the firing point. Compare this point to the pulley timing marks. Rotate the distributor as necessary. To recheck, turn the engine backward about 1/4 turn & back forward again. Once it has fired you have to back it up some to reset the electronics. Pretty easy to do by putting the gears in fourth or top & bump the car. You can bump it pretty easily by grabbing a front tire & turning it a bit.
D

 

[BUCKEYE_BOB]

THANKS for the good information. I will mess with the ignition again this weekend. Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Bob,
Once ya got it all together you need to next set the timing. This gets a little tricky as you will need to have a partner to turnover your car while you rotate the dizzy counter clockwise. I recommend moving it back about 20 or 30 degrees CCW before you start. Then rotate the distributor until it kicks over and can idle on it’s own.


Good advice. I'll add one thing:
To static time a pertronix Ignitor, place a voltmeter across the coil terminals. Very slowly rotate the engine in the forward direction & the voltmeter will drop to zero at the firing point. Compare this point to the pulley timing marks. Rotate the distributor as necessary. To recheck, turn the engine backward about 1/4 turn & back forward again. Once it has fired you have to back it up some to reset the electronics. Pretty easy to do by putting the gears in fourth or top & bump the car. You can bump it pretty easily by grabbing a front tire & turning it a bit.
D

[/ QUOTE ]
I have a suggestion that might be a little easier. Put the crank on the timing mark ( at the compression stroke )( you already know that but someone else might not) and rotate the distributor back then forward until the meter swings then you are there in one step. Lock the dizzy down then you are done.
Bob

 

[Dave Russell]

Sounds ok. Just make sure that the slack in the distributor drive gear & centrifugal advance are removed in the proper direction When coming up to the firing point. Remember that once the meter swings, you have to back the distributor up quite a bit for another try.
D

 

[JTB]

Great feedback guys. Stuff I can use as well in setting mine up when car comes home. Also....don't think it affects you Bob but was reading and participating in a thread on another BBS regarding the Pertronix making the tach read 25% higher than actual after installation. Pre and post 72 are different tach systems...and appears it affects only the pre-72 ones like mine. You have to adjust the potentiometer screw in the the tach (and match against electronic tester)...if I remember right they were having you drill hole so you can do it without disassembling the tach. Paul Hunt has some info on his site relating to it as well.

 

[Guest]

[ QUOTE ]
Sounds ok. Just make sure that the slack in the distributor drive gear & centrifugal advance are removed in the proper direction When coming up to the firing point. Remember that once the meter swings, you have to back the distributor up quite a bit for another try.[ QUOTE ]


Yeah, I assumed the proper direction of the shaft would be known and thats a good point about the slack. I always move back quite a bit before trying again. Also do it slow when aproching the trigger point and it will be more acurate.
Bob

 

[Frazier]

JTB where is Paul Hunt's site. Would like to read more about this.

Frazier

 

[JTB]

sorry...www.mgb-stuff.org.uk....if I remember right. if you do www search for "Paul Hunt MG" you will find it.