she won't start!

[tahoe healey]

Finally happened to me. I took the battery out to use a float charger this winter and when I put it back in I cannot get her to start. Usually I just start her up every week or so (with no problems)but with some of the posts here I decided it was best not to run her for a short time. Anyway, every thing is fine but no start. Got fuel to the carbs (and down the manifold overflow), got good strong starter turn over and intermittent "catch" but no running engine. I replaced the coil two years ago, the points are open to .014 and the dist. wires are one year old and the plugs are fine.
I may try a different condenser and check for spark from the wires to the plugs. Maybe the choke isn't all the way open but its hard to see on a BJ8 without removing the chambers and pistons.
Can anyone suggest anything else? I know its something dumb and simple but I cannot think of what right now. She has NEVER failed me before.
Thanks
TH

 

[BlueRidge1]

TH, Are the choke cables adjusted to fully engage???
Also the points could be grounded due to a faulty disconect switch in the trunk. Bob

 

[tahoe healey]

The disconect switch is a year old and I think it is fine but I will check it, thanks. As for the choke, I cannot tell yet. I'll have to pull the carb chambers off tuesday when I have time.

 

[MarkA]

Hi TH,

You might want to check the output of the coil first. Plug another high tension lead into the center of the coil and hold it a 1/4" from some ground point on the engine. Have someone turn turn the engine over with the ignition key and check for a healthy spark. If you have spark at the coil, then your coil and distributor (maybe not the cap) are working.

Next, check for spark at one of the plugs. Use a clip lead at the spark plug end of a wire and hold the other end of the clip lead close to ground and try the start again. You will probably "feel" this one if not using something else to hold the clip lead. If the spark is still good, then you can probably skip the plugs. If no spark at the plug, then might be a problem with the cap or the high tension lead from the coil to the cap. If only one of the spark plug wires is bad, the engine would still start and run rough.

To check the fuel system, use some starting fluid at one of the carbs. I do not like to use starting fluid too long, especially since you will be running on only 3 cylinders. Spray into one of the carbs. If you don't remove the air cleaner first, you will probably need to re-oil it after this test. If the engine starts, then you have a fuel delivery problem common to both carbs. If you are sure that you have fuel in the bowls, then it 'might' be a choke problem. But unless you are running the carbs very lean, you can usually get the engine to run without the choke.

You should have your problem somewhat identified after running some combination of these tests.

Good Luck,
Mark

 

[BOBBYR]

Hi guys
Lets try to find out what is missing.You said you have fuel and lets assume you do. Take the coil wire, at the coil end and place it loosely into the coil tower with a gap, so you can see if a spark jumps across the gap.Get someone to watch the gap ( about a 1/16 of an inch),while you are cranking the motor.If there is no spark across, then it's time for a test light.Take the test light and place it on the small pos terminal on the coil .Get someone to turn the ignition switch to the on position . Does the light light up?If no, put the light on the neg small terminal and get someone to put the ignition switch in the on position.Does the light light up?If neither small terminals light when the ignition switch is put in the on position ,the problem is either in the wiring from the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself.Check this and let me know what you find.Best of luck.
Bobby R

 

[Bob McElwee]

Hi TH,

I think the first thing I would do is try to start the engine using the 'button' on back to the starter solenoid while manually pulling up on the front carb choke lever. I use to do that on my BJ8 when it had sat for a long time and it was cold.
If that doesn't work then go to the other test mentioned.

 

[zblu]

Old fuel?

 

[tahoe healey]

Thanks for all the replys. The fuel is good (last drive in December)except I added a gas stablizer this year for the first time. Just got back form a weekend away and will attempt to work things out Tuesday.

 

[why]

Starting fluid, spray some into both air cleaners if it fires at all then know you have spark. If not, take out a plug and set it on grounded metal such as intake manifold, crank engine and see if you have spark. Quick way to differentiate spark from fuel problems. Keep it simple.

 

[bob hughes]

These old girls can take a bit of starting after a lay off, if all was OK on the last time of starting it may be as simple as damp in the dizzy cap. If she catches and does not run, your fuel should be OK, you can't empty the carbs by just catching, if you remove the plugs to check the spark, check if they are wet, she could be flooded, and give them a clean up before you put them back in. Mine takes a good 7 goes at this time of the year and a bit of light revving to get warmed up a bit before I move out.

I nearly forgot, check the low tension circuit connections on the coil and Dizzy, pull them on and off a couple of times or give them a clean, poor connections can give rise to problems.

best of luck

Bob

 

[HEALEYJAG]

I like Bob's idea..the distributor cap has aquired moisture..spray the inside of the cap and let er rip....my e-type has had the same problem after hibernation..this has worked everytime. Remember..its ALWAYS simple.

Pete

 

[tahoe healey]

BLOODY ROTOR!!!!
At least it was the first thing I tried today. She started sweet as she usually does. Now, where can I get a good one without the rivet? The Moss ones stil have the rivets.
Thanks for all your help. I have copied the posts and will carry them with me in the boot.

 

[Dave Russell]

I'm still using a 40 year old Echlin rotor, no rivet.

As a spare, I removed the rivet from a Moss/Lucas rotor, seated the contact bar in JB Weld & heat cured it. Ran it successfully for a few months & keep it as a reliable spare.

The general thinking is that some of the Lucas repro rotors were assembled with the rivet set so hard that it made a tiny crack in the rotor insulation.

The warm JB Weld fills any cracks & holds the contact very securely when it sets, no rivet needed.

Aside from doing this, you might find a rivetless rotor somewhere, or just keep a pocket full of Lucas spares.

Wider than standard plug gaps also increase the insulation stress on the rotors.
D

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Use WD-40. It works the best especially after you've gone through a large puddle of water or got too much water on the distributor when you washed down the engine bay at the car wash. Great stuff for moisture problems.

 

[tahoe healey]

Patrick, she never sees water. She gets handed wash with bucket and she's too prissy to go out in the wet world. But thanks.
Dave, I remember your earlier posts on getting rid of the rivet. I have two rotors, both with rivets. One has a round cap and the other has an indented dimple top. I don't know who makes them but one is from Moss. I would like to get at lesst one "good" one. Then I wil try removing the rivets to have two good spairs.