Hitting the right note

[Brakin80]

Have had to settle for installing a pair of Moss horns in our 1960 BN7. There was only one horn in the car when we purchased it. (I'm assuming it's the correct horn.) A Lucas Altette HF1748. My understanding is that one horn is an HF (high frequency) and the other a LF (low frequency). Is this right? Also, what is the difference between a set of Lucas Altette horns and a set of Lucas Alto horns?

 

[Johnny]

Hey another '60BN7 owner. Welcome. I also had to settle on the Moss horns. They sound great, but don't look as pretty as the original Alfeta horns. The originals are pancake in shape with a brass nut in the middle and they mounted up high on each side of the radiator. There is a bracket to mount them there. Mine were so rusted I couldn't even get the screws out to see if I could repair them. They did clean up real nice though on the outside and I repainted them. I tried to locate new one's and couldn't. Maybe someone else could locate some.

 

[BrianN]

I gave up finding the right ones too. Had to settle for a set of boat horns. A small dual pitch pair that easliy mounts on the right side of the radiator where one of the original horns is supposed to be. These sound about right. But they don't look correct at all. Fortunately they are very concealed so few would notice that indescretion. However, I think it is very important to have working horns on a Healey. People backing out of parking places just don't seem to see us. Correct ones will be installed if I come across some.

 

[mbrooks]

I posted a similar question on the other forum last week. My 100 BN2 only has one HF1748 and I wanted to know which it was. So I won't take credit for the answer to the question!!

Look on the curved plate at the back of the horn [the plate is fitted over the screws that hold the bracket that fits to the car] - As well as HF1748, a low horn has 70063A and a high horn 70071A.

Don't know the difference between Altette and Alto. The 1748 is often called an Altette, but I can't find this marked anywhere on the actual device.

My horn is a low note, and although I stripped it down, cleaned it and adjusted it, it does not make anywhere near as much noise as a modern horn. I would be interested to know if I am expecting too much......or is it the high note horn that produces most of the volume??

 

[Patton]

Since my 100-Six has Altette's, but have never been tested by me as they were not hooked up, I have been watching the discussion here and on the email list. I also found out that Altettes were used on many vintage bikes, and they have some rebuilding resources. Here is what I found.

(Hey Mike, maybe this could be a tech session!!!)

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Rebuilding Altette Horns - From https://www.thevincent.com/vinelectrics.html

Amateur's Guide to Horn Restoration: I've stripped and repaired several horns and there's not much to them. They contains a coil, and set of points and a diaphragm. The points are in series with the coil and when they open, the coil's magnetic field collapses. They are so positioned that when current enters the horn the coil pulls the diaphragm inwards and opens the points which collapses the field which releases the diaphragm which closes the points and gives us magnetism again and again and again... .
My steps are:
1. Disassemble - You shouldn't have to open the big nut in the middle of the Diaphragm but open everything else.
2. Clean any spider nests and rust out of the inside.
3. Check the current path for opens or shorts.
4. Clean the points and all screwed connectors to bare metal.
5. Clean and oil all threads.
6. Check coil for continuity. If it is bad, give up and get it rewound or find another horn. If you don't have a meter, briefly apply voltage through the coil and see if you get magnetism.
7. Make sure the adjusting screw on the back really does change the point gap when turned and the spring works.
8. Reassemble and test. Use adjuster on the back to adjust the horn tone and volume. If it makes just one pop of the diaphragm when you try it, the points are not opening when the diaphragm pulls in. If it makes no noise, then the points are open when current is initially applied and they should start out closed.
9. When you get some noise, turn the adjusting screw till the sound stops in both directions and pick the best tone in between.
Be especially careful where wires attach to the back. If they are open and can get wet, it can short from the connection to the horn body and cook all your wiring. On the Vincent the horn wire is always hot and it's activated by providing a ground path with the switch. An inline fuse is advisable.
10. Polish, paint, rechrome or whatever you like to the outside and you're in business.
Mike Hebb 3/9/02
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Altette Horn Repair
Lynn (known as Taff the Horn) Isaacs is a ruddy miracle man on all types of horn. Has 9000 horns and specs on almost every one ever made. Got me one for my 37 Rudge Ulster, rebuilt my A and the C (12V conversion). Hardly ever uses pattern stuff (re wiring is new!!) and charges are embarrassingly modest. (Authur) 7/18/00

Issac Lynn "Taff the Horn"
20 the Glebe
Bishopston, Swansea,
West Glamorgan SA3 3JP
South Wales, UK
lynn.isaac@tinyworld.co.uk

https://www.croesus-consultants.co.uk/v-tec/horns.htm
The site has a downloadable Lucas horn service sheet!!!

 

[AndrewMawson]

Well well well - Issac is still in business is he! I used him for the rebuilding of my 1952 Sunbeam S8 500cc m/c horn decades ago!

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