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Wow, this is a new one for me, I don't think I've ever seen a bent one before.
I could be way wrong but I doubt it is from aggressive driving, I raced mine for a lot of years and never bent one (I regularly confirmed it was straight when servicing the car), nor have I heard of any other racers bending one.
Be interesting to hear from others, maybe this is more common than I know?
It looks like you have HDPE/synthetic bushings of some kind which may be causing a strain when the axle is moving up & down? I always ran the stock rubber bushings which are usually a bit softer.
FWIW - I ran the "uprated" Cape panhard rod with poly bushings on the chassis side and a heim joint on the axle side. It broke the axle mounting tab. I went back to rubber bushings.
It was straight when I put it in. Yes, those are poly bushings that were on the anti-sway bar. I put black ones
in front and moved these to the back so they wouldn’t show.
The thig that makes the bar strong is the material the diameter and wall thickness.
If you want to keep the same diameter go with a thicker wall tube or to one of the stronger chrome molly steels.
However, as mentioned above it appears that your attachment points may be too strong for the vertical travel of the wheel.
I don't know how the bar attaches in an AH but the bar should not bind in vertical movement.
I always preferred Heim joints as they do not bind.
I impoved the panrod on my racer when I hit the track about 15 years ago. Reinforced the welds on both axle mounts and the chassis, in addition to replacing the stock rod with a heavier grade unit and mounting hardware. Never had any issues ......
5/8 inch sounds a bit small. If it was me I would go with at least 7/8 diameter.
Bars are available with pretapped ends from many circle track shops at a reasonable price.
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