Help needed- install inner sills,etc.

[simmons]

I am restoring a 1959 bn4 100/6..... My car had fiberglass fenders on it from previous owner I took them off and threw in trash. I have a set of original fenders off a different car they will need some patching etc. I want to replace the inner,intermediate, outer sills, And the hinge,shutface pillars, also the fronts of the rear inner fenders. I have all repair pieces (kilmartin) I know this is alot to tackle and I must be crazy but could you give me some pointers and how to proceed?All fenders,doors,front shroud are off car. My out riggers appear to be ok,engine and tranny is in car. I have not cut the sill out yet. the top of sill should be 3 inches above top of out riggers correct? how far out from the frame rails should the sills be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.(caddi5@comcast.net)

regards Mitch Simmons

 

[Cottontop]

I took them off and threw in trash.

Did'ja really throw'em in the trash ?

I've been looking for fiberglass fenders for a couple of years... I'd even come and pick'em up in the fall when we circle the Great Lakes.

Tim

 

[Johnny]

:thumbsup: Well Mitch you've really taken up the challenge haven't you. I've been there and done that, so I'll try and help if I may. First what experience do you have in welding and general body shop work? Be honest and not shy, I knew nothing at first but learned a lot along the way and feel I'm better off for it. You must take satisfaction in doing a small bit at a time and not look towards the end goal.

You didn't mention it in your post but I assume you'll need to replace the toe boards as well, correct?

Let me say this please. Why not strip the car down totally, take all the sheet metal (doors, trunk, hood, fenders etc.) to a reputable acid dipper and have them clean up the body for you. It'll make for a better and easier restoration over-all. I think you'll discover more rust than you think you had. Including the trunk floor, bulkhead behind the seats etc.

My first practical tip would be to do one side at a time, try and keep the integrity of the chassis intact. Since you mentioned replacing the hinge posts you might end up with a real challenge getting the doors to fit. Usually just the lower portion of the pillars need repair. Keep us posted okay?

 

[Randy Forbes]

Echoing Johnny's advice, yes, leave as much of the car assembled as you carry out the other repairs.

Just because you have a complete repair piece, only use as much of it as you'll need to correct the the damage on your existing piece.

In my case, I replaced the entire door shut panels, because I had bought them. I caused myself endless problems (and required a professional to correct them). I should've only replaced the lower 6" of the existing panel.

Use good judgement (which I know, comes as a result of prior poor judgement...) and try not to cut away any more of the original body than you have to. You can join sheetmetal panels in a way that the repairs will never show.

 

[stevebn2bj7]

Tim,

If he did throw them out, I believe that a couple friends here in the Cleveland area have some fiberglass fenders they would gladly part with.

Let me know and I will find out for sure.

Steve

 

[krag50]

Mitch
Hello, where abouts in Mich are you? I,m located in western MI and would be glad to let you come by and measure my car. It's a 1960 BN7 and has no body panels on it so would be well exposed to allow observation and measuring. My car has had the outer sills replaced and the door shut faces repaired. If interested let me know, has I have a wealth of info on what not to do.
Regards
cnedeau@adacautomotive.com

 

[vette]

Hi Mitch, I tried to answer you yesterday but a storm messed up my internet connection. Anyway, since I have just been doing similar work on my Healey and I have the right side just about done, I also put in new floors etc, i can give a few pointers. I had to put my door latch pillar in twice because I put it in before I did the rocker panel and had the pillar too low. So things like that I hope to keep you from have to do twice. I would leave the shrouds on unless you absolutely have to remove them. especially the back one as that is the reference for hanging the doors. I'm getting ahead of myself, firstly, put in multiple braces using angle iron or square tubing. Brace the door openning fore and aft, and the cockpit laterally. and maybe at least one diagonal. Take multiple measurements and pics. The braces can be used as reference points for your measurements. Install the inner sills first, then the floors. Fix frame and outriggers as you go. Then hang a door. Now here is a significant point. the front hinge pillar on most cars probably has never been moved and is usually not rusted too badly. So that is your reference. Hang the door and see where the back upper corner of the door lines up with the front top most point of the rear shroud. You want to make this line up. Shim door as necessary. Now hang front fender. Make it match the line of the front of the door. Now do rocker panel. then cut out what is left of the door latch pillar and replace that. With the Door in the right place you can position the latch pillar to mate with the rear of the door. Remember to allow enough room for latch mechanism, etc. Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a visual aid.
I know this is a quick synopsus but I hope it helps. This project is alot of work. Keep asking questions and good luck.
Dave C.

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey Mitch,
The Austin Healey Club USA had a great series of restoration articles done
by Roger Moment and Gary Anderson that would really provide a wealth of
pictures and verbiage for what you are getting ready to do. If you're
a member just go to the website and even if you're not, would be well worth
it to join if just for the series of articles.
Regards,
Mike

 

[bighealeysource]

Mitch,
the website is : www.healey.org
Regards,
Mike

 

[bob hughes]

Mitch

I am nearly one step ahead of you with a rolling restoration, I am still removing metal/rust from one side only at a time. Talked to my Guru over here, 1) support car on all four splined axles so that it is faily level, 2) make reference points for the re installation of the sills I have marked the front inner fender for the top of the sill at this location and also the back inner fender, in theory the A post should not move when sills are removed, but file a mark on the outside near the top of the A post just before it rolls over and measure to a mark on the ground 3) I have made another mark on the top of the B post and measured between the two marks. 4) cut away all the metal / rust that you need, check between marks as required just to keep an eye on things.

I have also removed the main, rear and front floor sections only to reveal a rust and pitted top to the main chassis members. Removing the sill sections from behind the A post is trick if you are keeping the bottom of the A post.
Very imortant when installing the new sills, put the door back on. If the A post has moved, you can jack it back up before welding the A post to the sill. Mine has not moved but I will still hang the door to be sure. The door needs to be on for postioning the outer sill to ensure that the gap is even.
Keep us informed

Bob