TR6 Carburetors 1975 TR6

[FredH]

My Strombergs were rebuilt 4 years ago, one now faulty, car sits a lot, probably only 1300 miles in that time. Is it normal that these things are so finicky? If so , can anyone suggest best modification alternative? Is Weber the way to? Or where is best place to order rebuilt strombergs?

 

[DougF]

What are the symptoms to your problems?
Yes, Strombergs do require a little more tinkering than other types of carbs. You have to maintain oil level in the dashpots, rubber diaphragms that can turn hard or get holes, and you must deal with troublesome pollution controls.
The cars should be driven as sitting causes problems throughout the car.
Some people like Webers or SU's. Strombergs are very easy to rebuild, but I doubt that yours would need a total rebuild again so soon.

 

[FredH]

Car was idling poorly (like engine wanted to jump off the mounts) adjusted idle ...now ok ...but car has no power under load. I am making carb prob assumption after car was in for state inspection at local gas station and I wanted them to fix the power problem, I had already cleaned plugs points, etc. Only one plug was a little fouled, all needed a clean though. Gas Station was where they told me the rear carb was faulty. I did open both up and tried to refill oil properly. The rear one needed oil more that the front. Now maybe slightly over filled in both cases.Both are mssing O ring at top seal, but I don't even see one pictured in my manual , so maybe was added when they were rebuilt. I hoped that the refill would help, but No...Any thoughts? and THanks in advance.

 

[DougF]

The carbs have a little hole out the top that brings the oil to an optimal level.
What color was your faulty plug? Black or white? How old is your gasoline?

 

[FredH]

You mean where you unscrew the top lift out slighty and then add oil...I added oil per instrucions in my repair manual, maybe SLIGHTY, too much... bad plug was black

 

[FredH]

and gas may have been in there for a while. But it went from ruuning fine , even driving in to work a few times, then sat for probably 2 weeks...then the problem hit...I was alternating between driving my old porsche to work and the TR. Left the TR alone for 2 weeks or so...it probably got jealous of it's german garage mate

 

[DougF]

The hole is on the left side of the dome.
Has anybody messed with the timing? If you remove the air cleaners, do the pistons move freely inside the carbs?

 

[FredH]

thanks need do pull some things apart to check pistons, back later...

 

[DougF]

Another thing to check is the linkage. Make sure it is not slipping to one carb. This would allow the engine to idle well, but have poor performance.

 

[martx-5]

Are you sure it's the carb(s)?? Most carb problems seem to be ignition related. Make sure the cap, rotor, wires etc. are all top notch before messing with the carbs.

If it's been raining the last week or so in your area like it has here on Long Island, the secondary ignition system (cap, rotor, wires) could very well be causing your problems. Easy enough to check by pulling the wires from the plugs one at a time to see how it affects things.

Edit: Don't pull those wires off with you hand, unless you like several thousand volts giving you the heebee-geebees. Some people enjoy the experience. Personally, the couple of times it's happened to me is enough for a lifetime! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Use an insulated pair of pliers that are made for that.

 

[FredH]

thanks to you both I got caught up in some "honey dews" today, will play a bit tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes

 

[FredH]

Linkage is good, checked all ignition wires, and removed air filter. Pistons in carbs both move up and down freely, rear on has less resistance than the front almost by half. Maybe still needs more oil? Or possibly front ome is too full?

 

[DougF]

That resistance difference might be in your diaphragms. One being harder than the other. Don't worry about overfilling the dampers. The only thing that happens is oil gets everywhere.
When you adjusted the idle, did you balance the carbs when you were finished? How lethargic is the performance?
Have you looked at the diaphragms for holes? How old are the ignition wires?

 

[FredH]

Doug I realy appreciate your help> I still havn't checked the diaphram, will do that now, Ignition wires fairly new, whole car was restored bottom up 10 years ago , so that old. The rubber gas hoses look a little cracked and tired though...not leaking but maybe sucking air under pressure? I tried to make the two idle screws even if that's what you mean by balancing. The car seems likes it's running about 1/2 potential and sometimes need to give it gas or choke once come to full stop so she doesn't die. I'll check diaphram on rear one now. I have done some looking back in the forum at other peoples problems, you seem to be the CARB DOCTOR! Thanks!!!!

 

[FredH]

Guess what? The diaphram is fried..... So should I order 2 and do both at the same time? Are they easy to replace? Any other parts I should replace at same time? Can I do this myself?

 

[startech47]

Yes, replace both of the diaphrams. The other is not far behind in it's condition. A backfire could have destroyed the diaphram. You should be able to replace them. Let us know if you need directions. Be careful not to bend the needles when you have the carbs. apart. With the diaphram destroyed the air valve would never rise and you would be running off of one carb., resulting in 1/2 the performance.

The diaphrams aare simple to replae without removing the carbs. from the engine. Other parts require the carbs. to be removed. I would try the diaphrams first. I think this will solve your problem.

Phil

 

[DougF]

Actually, I tend to tell people not to mess with their carbs. The problem is usually in ignition or vaccuum lines.
I am far from a carb guru, but know enough to usually keep myself out of trouble. But I've learned by getting there.
To check for balance, put a rubber hose to the intake of both carbs. Listen to the sound of the air being sucked into each carb. If one is louder than the other, your carbs are not in balance.
I'm going to guess that your carbs are not balanced. If possible, take the idle back to it's original positioning.
To adjust your idle, you must loosen the linkage so the carbs will work independent of one another. You then adjust the idle screw on each carb to the desired idle speed, then balance and fine tune using either an air metering gauge or the hose, whichever you prefer. Then tighten the linkage bolts.
Hopefully, you can take it back to the original position. If your plug wires are ten years old. I would definitely replace them. The insulation will absorb moisture, causing problems with the electical flow. You can buy standard wires from any auto parts store that will work. You should take the coil wire with you to help determine what will fit. While at the store, it might not be a bad idea to purchase new plugs. They are cheap, and their replacement will eliminate one more potential problem area.

 

[FredH]

Thanks Phil, I will order from Moss Motors, I guess and I have a good service manual, I'll let you ALL know if any idiot can replace them. Hopefully, I'll get to this next weekend and HOPEFULLY , I'll be back telling everyone how easy it is rather yhan asking for more help! Big thanks to Doug as well!

 

[startech47]

Fred,

Just pulled my sons carb. apart to check on the lugs for you. Let me know if you need any pictures.

Unscrew damper and cap assembly

Remove 4 each phillips head cover screws from suction chamber cover

Remove suction chamber cover

Remove air valve spring

Remove air valve assembly

Remove 4 each retaining rind screws

Remove retaining ring

Remove diaphram

The new diaphram will have two lugs. On on the inner diameter and one on the outer diameter. These fit into slots in the air valve and the carb body.

Installation reverse removal steps.

Add oil until the damper meets resistance when it is 1/4" from full insertion

Phil

 

[FredH]

above and beyond the call of duty. Thank you> Looks pretty easy in repair manual too