Wedge Help Removing Carburetors

[urchin]

I have an '80 TR-7 Spider with the original twin Strombergs. Even though it's 30 degrees and windy outdoors, I went out to remove the carbs prior to a rebuilding session planned for this weekend. However, I ran into immediate problems figuring out how to remove them.

I have standard length 1/2 wrenches and set of stubby wrenches, so I was able to loosen the two nuts at the top of the carb-to-base studs, but I cannot see the bottom ones. I can feel one nut on both the left and right sides but neither wrench will actually work to turn the nut; either the angle of the open end is wrong or there's yet another bracket or hose in the way.

The online manual from BL just references "remove the carburetors" and makes mention - but no diagrams - of the nuts. Is there a magic bullet here? How many nuts are there and where are they located? And if you can find them, how do you remove them?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[tr8todd]

Very difficult to just remove the carbs, but it can be done. Much easier to remove the whole intake manifold, then remove the carbs once it's off the car. For that the best tool is a long extension on a 3/8" drive socket wrench. The long shank of the extension fits between the intake runners. If you still want to remove the carbs and leave the intake in place, you will have to go under the manifold with just a wrench and turn the nuts a tiny bit at a time. You will need to back off all four bottom nuts simultaneously.

 

[urchin]

Thanks, Todd. The nuts hidden from view are the problem; even with using short spanners I can't get much movement on them without running up against a bracket.

I wondered about removing the intake manifold, too. Except for one nut hidden behind the distributor cap, it looked like an easier option precisely because you could get a socket on it. Do I assume correctly that there's a gasket underneath the manifold that will have to be replaced, too?

I also thought I might as well replace the carb spacers off the manifold, too.

Jeff

 

[George_H]

It can be done. I did it more than once this year. With that said, The first time I was convinced that it was impossible...It is not . Its just a pain. Reaching under the carbs is tight, long thin arms help, plus stubby spanners. First time 3 days and much beer. now about 45min.(maybe one beer when finished)

 

[tr8todd]

If you remove the intake, you will need to replace the gasket and you should replace the O ring at the water inlet. They are cheap, but you have to order them. One of the big problem areas with the carbs is the rubber isolator mounts. Over time, the rubber separates or cracks away from the steel. This allows unmetered air to enter the intake making for all kinds of idle issues. Best way to check for leaks is to spray carb cleaner around them when the car is running. If there is a leak, the carb cleaner will get sucked in and the RPMs will rise. I've seen pristine looking ones that are bad and awful looking ones that are good. Remove the manifold and play with them in your living room while your watching football like I do. Just rebuilt a set of downdraft Webers while the turkey was in the oven. Man the Packers suck without Rogers.

 

[sammyb]

The first time I removed the carbs on my TR7, it took me four hours. The second time took 15 minutes. Here is the trick:

YOU NEED to use stubby wrenches, period. Harbor Freight $7.99 ones work perfectly. (I didn't have ratcheting wrenches back then, and I can't honestly remember if that would have even worked, because I don't think they'd have cleared) but the trick is to use the stubby and go as far as you can and flip the wrench over. You'll get a rhythm. After about 10 flips, the nuts will come loose with fingers.

I STRONGLY ADVISE that you take the opporunity with the carbs off to replace the rubber carb mounts with solid metal ones. Can't remember where I got mine, but I think they were about 40 or 50 bucks for a pair. The rubber ones suck (literally -- they separate and suck air causing you to run lean.) Even brand new ones fail quickly. Metal ones never fail and seal perfectly. Don't believe anyone who says that they transmit too much vibration or heat.

 

[urchin]

Sam, I tried stubbys that I had and even then could not get a turn on the nut - the angle was wrong or there was a bracket in the way. There is a racheting open end spanner that I might be able to use. I'll look for the metal mounts. although my rubber ones seem to be in good shape from the outside. Spraying carb cleaner around them when the car was running did not change the idle speed rpm at all.

Thanks,

Jeff