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Hegg
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Yay! I finally got my TR7 back together and got it started! Now I gotta get the gremlins out so I can drive it around reliably and fun-ly.
It starts and I have driven it about 10 miles so far, but I can't get the carbs running right. Seems like I have a few oddities that hopefully someone can put all together and tell me what I'm doing wrong.
First off, lifting the pistons and letting them drop does make a "thunk" sound as it hits the bottom. If I tighten the mixture screws all the way UP, then the car will start (no choke) and BARELY idle, missing probably half the time. Opening the throttle doesn't help at all, it just lowers the already low RPMs to where it nearly dies.
If I lower the mixture adjustment down several flats while it's running, the engine starts to perk up just a little bit. However, if I put my hand near the intake now, the engine runs very smooth and jets up to probably 6,000 RPMs and won't come back down. So then I quickly run to the key and shut it off because I certainly don't want my fresh engine running that fast (yet).
Playing with varying adjustments of the mixture nut, I also experience the symptom that the car does not idle back down once the accellerator is pressed. Other times, I have to keep opening the choke a half inch or so in order to get the engine to run, but then it idles at 2,500 or so. Closing the choke makes the car nearly die and pressing the throttle kills it more. All of this is done when the engine is warm, not cold.
My distributor is turned counter-clockwise as far as it can go, and a timing light indicates around 18-20 degrees BTDC (again, idling at 2,500). When the car is off, pushing the piston up in the carb will sometimes cause fuel to leak from the carb intake.
Oh, and by the way, my throttle stop screws are unscrewed all the way so they aren't even touching the throttle stops. My throttle plates have that spring valve thingy on them.
This is my first experience with SU carbs, so I'm fairly unfamiliar with them. I've tried going through my shop manual, but it doesn't seem to make any difference what I do.
I've read somewhere that the spring valve on the throttle plate can be worn and basically stay open. My rebuild kit included two throttle plates without a spring valve on them, but I opted to keep the existing ones.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I appreciate everyone's willingness to read this and share their expertise.
It starts and I have driven it about 10 miles so far, but I can't get the carbs running right. Seems like I have a few oddities that hopefully someone can put all together and tell me what I'm doing wrong.
First off, lifting the pistons and letting them drop does make a "thunk" sound as it hits the bottom. If I tighten the mixture screws all the way UP, then the car will start (no choke) and BARELY idle, missing probably half the time. Opening the throttle doesn't help at all, it just lowers the already low RPMs to where it nearly dies.
If I lower the mixture adjustment down several flats while it's running, the engine starts to perk up just a little bit. However, if I put my hand near the intake now, the engine runs very smooth and jets up to probably 6,000 RPMs and won't come back down. So then I quickly run to the key and shut it off because I certainly don't want my fresh engine running that fast (yet).
Playing with varying adjustments of the mixture nut, I also experience the symptom that the car does not idle back down once the accellerator is pressed. Other times, I have to keep opening the choke a half inch or so in order to get the engine to run, but then it idles at 2,500 or so. Closing the choke makes the car nearly die and pressing the throttle kills it more. All of this is done when the engine is warm, not cold.
My distributor is turned counter-clockwise as far as it can go, and a timing light indicates around 18-20 degrees BTDC (again, idling at 2,500). When the car is off, pushing the piston up in the carb will sometimes cause fuel to leak from the carb intake.
Oh, and by the way, my throttle stop screws are unscrewed all the way so they aren't even touching the throttle stops. My throttle plates have that spring valve thingy on them.
This is my first experience with SU carbs, so I'm fairly unfamiliar with them. I've tried going through my shop manual, but it doesn't seem to make any difference what I do.
I've read somewhere that the spring valve on the throttle plate can be worn and basically stay open. My rebuild kit included two throttle plates without a spring valve on them, but I opted to keep the existing ones.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I appreciate everyone's willingness to read this and share their expertise.
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