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TR6 1976 TR6 Clutch & Brakes

Don_Houston

Senior Member
Offline
Thanks for all the help so far. I have have been refurbishing the 76 TR6 I got about a month ago. 23k miles, sitting in a barn for 30 years.

I have:
- refurbished the radiator, changed all hoses, belt (yes, I had to remove the cross brace, thermostat, flushed engine.
- Had gas tank professionally cleaned and coated inside and out, replaced the fuel lines, filter and pump.

Questions:
1.) There are two holes in the spare tire pit towards the front of the floor. Should these be plugged or left open for condensation to drain out (the trunk is immaculate)?
2.) The clutch pedal does not move at all. The fluid cylinder had a dry powder in it. What would be my next step to figure out what I need to clean, rebuild or replace?
3.) I flushed the brake lines and they seem clear. How do I check out the master cylinder to see wht it needs? I don't know yet if I need to completely change all of the brakes themselves or is this pretty much inevitable?

Thanks a million
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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After 30 years, just plan on rebuilding or replacing all of the hydraulics, including at least the soft lines. Even if they work at first (which is unlikely), they will fail soon IMO.

On the clutch MC, remove the MC and see if the pedal moves once the MC is disconnected. Probably it will, but if not you'll need to work on the pedal pivots as well.

Just to give you an idea, here's what I found in the clutch slave on my "barn find" TR3:

DSCF0002_cropped.jpg


The other cylinders were just as bad (at least the ones I was able to get apart).
 

hondo402000

Darth Vader
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sounds like the clutch cylinder has bit the dust, no pun intended, I would replace it and the slave cylinder, or at least take them apart but they are probably beyond repair, also I would replace that plastic tube to the slave cylinder with a Braided SS one,

Brake, might be worth pulling each caliper off and rebuilding and grease the wheel bearings, and do the rear cylinders too, the Master cylinder could be ok but I dont play around with brakes. Also if you have a PDWA I would take it apart and clean it and put new o rings in it too, then the brakes will be like new again

good luck

Hondo
 

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
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Hi Don - welcome.

There should be plugs in those openings in the trunk.

As suggested above, I'd plan on replacing the masters, clutch slave, cylinders and lines. Not hard to do and the right approach for safety and ultimately minimizing time spent etc. Just order from Moss etc.

Keep us posted on how you get on with her!
 
OP
D

Don_Houston

Senior Member
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Yesterday I attempted the first start-up in 30 years. Using starter spray on three starts (to pull the first fuel into the system?) it stayed running and leveled out at a nice idle.

Then I could walk around the car and noticed fuel coming out from under the emissions carbon canister. I checked all of the hoses there and tried again. Looks like the fuel is coming out of the anti run-on valve. I have previously completely replace the supply and return fuel lines.

I have not touched the carbs at all. Any ideas on root-cause?

Exciting day nonetheless.

Thanks!
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Most likely you have a float valve that is not shutting off the flow of fuel. Could be a tiny bit of crud caught in the valve; or the float is not floating as it should. Might even be too much fuel pressure if the pump has been replaced recently. At idle, the float bowls are vented to the carbon canister, so the fuel is running through one or both vent lines and down through the carbon to drip out the bottom.

Most of the original plastic and rubber used in the fuel system will not stand up to modern 'oxygenated' fuel for very long. I'd give some serious thought to replacing the fuel pump diaphragm and carb floats.
 
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