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Wedge Help 1976 TR7 Rear Brakes!!!

brujahstorm

Freshman Member
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I've got a '76 wedge I'm re-doing the rear brakes on... I've put new wheel cylinders in place on both the right (complete) and left, but having a question on the left... As there is only one brake line to attach to the wheel cylinder, on which hole does it attach, the one with the larger boss where the circlip goes to hold the wheel cylinder in place, or on the other one? Does it matter? The other is for the bleed screw, but the new cylinder shipped to me with the bleed nipple opposite of the way it was on my car. If it doesn't matter for brake function, would it be better to have the bleed screw at the higher or lower point for better bleeding? Finish of this part of the project is finished as soon as I know for sure how to attach, so any help is greatly appreciated. Also, on a side note, how do you "adjust" the rear brakes on these cars? It looks as though the widgets on the shoes make them self-adjustable, but not sure. I know that the wheel I've just finished does NOT turn freely after putting the wheel back on and assuming some adjustment or a push of the brake pedal may be necessary. Thanks for any help. It is much appreciated. Thanks..
 

WedgeWorks

Jedi Trainee
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The left sside rear brake cylinder has the steel brake line going into the top hole and the bleeder screw into the lower.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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...or you can just wait until Mike or Todd chime in
grin.gif
 

tr8todd

Jedi Knight
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The best way to do it is to tee the brake line right after the rear brake hose and run a line to each rear wheel with a bleeder at each wheel. Mike is right, the bleeder was on the bottom from the factory, but for the life of me and can't figure why. After all, don't air bubbles float. They are self adjusting out. If they are too tight they won't adjust in. The adjustment is suppose to work when you use the brakes while backing up. The shoes contacting the drums in reverse causes them to rock and the adjuster clicks like a ratchet to take up the slack. When you put them back together make sure you lightly grease the mechanisms where they slide. If you haven't yet changed the rear hose, DO IT. Bad things happen when those go bad. They swell shut and the brake line pressure is sufficient to force the fluid past the inclusion, but the springs can't retract the shoes and push the fluid back to the master. The rear brakes will lock and you will cook everything. The rubber boots on the wheel cylinder will puff up like those shrimp puffs from the chinese restaurants.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Todd, why don't you create a retro kit to go from 1 to 2 bleeders
 
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brujahstorm

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So, just to be clear, the bleed nipple goes on the lower side as factory? As for bubbles, true they rise, but under pressure, it shouldn't really matter in a properly closed system. Fluid dynamics should dictate that the bubbles follow the path out, right? As for the mod, a great idea, but trying to get her streeted right now, so bypassing any mods. I just want to get her back to the way she should be for now. I've got all new components on the rear brakes and about to get the front kit from Vickie Brit if that doesn't work. I had recharged the brake system with fluid (she had been sitting when I got her) and after bleeding, they held for a short time, but eventually lost pressure. I know these wheel cylinders are notorious, so I figured I'd start with the rear and work my way forward. Honestly, I'm considering a rear disc brake mod anyways as I hate drum brake setups. I've seen a couple of ways to go, but plan to tackle the job once the car is finished with the once-over. Still a lot of basics with $$ attached to mod. Thanks so much for the help. I really appreciate it. I'm new but on several other forums (corvette, triumph motorcycles, radio controlled helicopters) and I love the forum as a way to help each other in a community. Good to know the same spirit resides here. Thanks again to all.
 
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brujahstorm

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Awesome link DNK!!! This is step by step with pics!! Does not get much better than that. Seems I have to go back and swing the adjuster out a bit as I'm too tight to start, but that's a quick fix. Thanks again all...
 

tr8todd

Jedi Knight
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Don, a quick trip to the auto parts store and you have your kit. All you need is a tee, two 3 foot lengths of brake line and two new bleeders. I like to secure the lines with adel loop clamps.
 

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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That tee needs to be anchored ,I think.
I would also use flexible stainless.
 
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