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TR6 1976 TR6 Rebuild

Don_Houston

Senior Member
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I just purchased a 1976 TR6 with 23k miles, it has been in storage for about 28 years. A friend of mine examined the car, I have not seen it yet. Minimal surface rust on the body and interior in B+ shape. The engine was started up after changing the oil, and putting gas in the carbs (tank is likely gummed-up). I am going to try and do as much work myself as I can, so where to start?

What is the best parts website (there seems to be many) and what are the recommended brands?

How do I prioritize what to do first to get the engine running safely?

I have been advised that I will likely need to clean the fuel tank and filler tube, new fuel lines, pump and rebuild the carbs - sound right?

Anybody in the League City Texas area?

Thanks for your help - I will need it all!
 

TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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Don, welcome,

I dropped off my TR3 tub yesterday just up the road in La Marque.
My red '74 TR6 has been in League City more than once, but I live in Spring.

The first thing you should do is join the TTR. You know we're hosting a national VTR meet in Galveston in October?

I'd clean the tank and lines, but doubt the lines will need replaced. All the fluids need replaced. The brakes need to be carefully inspected before you find out the hard way they are not up to snuff. Also find out how old your tires are, and replace them before they blow out on you. What type of 'rebuild' are you looking to do?

'The roadster factory', and 'Moss' are my favorites, but check the advertisements on this forum.

Jer
 

JodyFKerr

Jedi Knight
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Ditto on what was previously said.

Plan on rebuilding the brake system. Basically anything in there that's rubber will be shot.

Once you can start, drive, and stop then start worrying about the other bits.
 

TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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JodyFKerr said:
Basically anything in there that's rubber will be shot.

Let me clarify what I said about the gas lines. The hard (steel lines) should just need cleaned. There are a few short sections of rubber used to connect the tank to the line, and the line to the pump and filter, that I would replace while cleaning the lines. They dry rot, crack and eventually will leak.

Enjoy your new toy and post some pictures.
 
OP
D

Don_Houston

Senior Member
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Thanks for the comments so far. I will try to post a few "before" photo's to have more gratification on the "after" photo's.

Can anyone comment on my question on the quality of parts? I want to buy the best needed, but don't need to go overboard for little value. Are their a few manufactures that you really trust?
 
OP
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Don_Houston

Senior Member
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I am ready to start my rebuild and will rebuild the carb first. Moss has a "Master rebuild kit" for $134 and a "rebuild kit" for $80 without any description of whats in the kit. Which one do I need? The engine has 23k miles on it but has not been driven in 20 years.

How do I post photo's?
 

Mickey Richaud

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Don_Houston said:
I am ready to start my rebuild and will rebuild the carb first. Moss has a "Master rebuild kit" for $134 and a "rebuild kit" for $80 without any description of whats in the kit. Which one do I need?

Don - check here and scroll down through the list of parts. Some will say "Included in Master and Standard Rebuild Kits", and some say "Included in Master Rebuild Kits". Throttle shafts and disks, some hardware, etc.

Don_Houston said:
How do I post photo's?

Check here

:cheers:
Mickey
 

poolboy

Yoda
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Don_Houston said:
I am ready to start my rebuild and will rebuild the carb first. Moss has a "Master rebuild kit" for $134 and a "rebuild kit" for $80 without any description of whats in the kit. Which one do I need? The engine has 23k miles on it but has not been driven in 20 years.

How do I post photo's?


Make sure that whichever kit you buy you also get a Throttle Bypass Valve DIAPHRAM. As yet I have not found a kit that includes it so I buy them separately. Some kits don't even include the o-ring seal for the damper well that goes around the needle adjuster.

Tip: clean again and again and test for reliable function the float chamber needle valve that you will get in the kit. I've had to reject several brand new ones in favor of reinstalling a reliable old one.
I usually buy the Victoria British kits and the other 2 items I mentioned as not included separately
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Don_Houston said:
Can anyone comment on my question on the quality of parts? I want to buy the best needed, but don't need to go overboard for little value. Are their a few manufactures that you really trust?

I would say it's mostly a crap shoot. In general, we don't even know who manufactured a part, they generally show up with only the required "country of origin" identification (and sometimes not even that). On the rare occasions where there is a name on the box, they have almost always bought the part from someone else and put it in their box. And unfortunately, by the time that word gets around of poor quality parts, generally new ones aren't made by the same factory any more anyway.

There are a few names left, like Timken & Robbins; but others like Lucas, Girling and TRW have been sold so many times that they are basically meaningless today.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Don_Houston said:
I am ready to start my rebuild and will rebuild the carb first. Moss has a "Master rebuild kit" for $134 and a "rebuild kit" for $80 without any description of whats in the kit. Which one do I need? The engine has 23k miles on it but has not been driven in 20 years.

In that case, most likely you will be fine with the lesser kit. The "Master" kit includes things like throttle shafts that don't normally need to be replaced unless the carb has a LOT of miles on it.
 
OP
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Don_Houston

Senior Member
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I finally got started! Questions:

1.) I have pulled the gas tank and am getting it cleaned and coated.
2.) I have set up a hose and funnel on the fuel line using "Marine Clean" solvent. I think the fuel line is really gummed up after sitting for 30 years. Is there a stronger solvent I could use?
3.) Or will I have to replace the whole fuel line (I already replaced all of the flexible portions)? If I have to replace the fuel lines, the clamps are riveted to the frame and will likely break anyway, so is there a common solution for this?
4.) I pulled the radiator and will have a shop check that for me. I will be replacing all hoses and thermostat at this time. With the radiator out should I do some kind of extra flush on the engine, and if so how do you do it?

(clutch and brakes are next on the list!)

Many Thanks!
 
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