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TR6 Problem with Clutch on 1976 TR6


Freshman Member

First I will start by stating that I am not a mechanic but an owner of a TR6 who helped my father care for the car while in High School. Since his passing 2 years ago I had the car delivered to MA where I restored the interior and changed all fluids, plugs, seals. Now the real things needing to be addressed are starting to creep up. The first to show itself today was the clutch which appears to not be able to engage either in first or in reverse. If I run the car until warmed up completely and pump the clutch it eventually will engage but the throw is short and almost immediate. I checked the fluid level and it is full. In my research, I have come across several posts were there was much conversation about adjusting the slave cylinder.

Can anyone make suggestions on what my next steps should be?

Thank you for your help!

Kind Regards,
There is no adjustment on the TR6 clutch actuation system as it is built. Some have added earlier TR bits to add some adjustment, but properly set up that isn't really necessary but by the same token, there isn't much room for error in setting up the clutch mechanism on the TR6 either. It is possible for a hydraulic cylinder to bypass internally and that could be your problem or if the clutch slave cylinder was removed and then reinstalled, it might have been reinstalled improperly. If you have one of the Bentley manuals (a reprint of the factory manual) take a look at their illustrations of the clutch slave mounting and compare it with what you have. If you don't have one of the Bentley or a factory manual, consider getting one, it's worth having.
If you're not loosing fluid, but pumping does restores enough pressure to disengage the clutch, I go long with the scenario Tybalt put forth about the fluid bypassing the internal seal.
I'd recommend either rebuilding or replacing both the master and slave. A rebuilt or new master will probably blow out an old slave eventually if you don't.
Thank you all for your quick responses. I do have several manuals both the Bentley and the Haynes TR6 manuals. I took a picture of the setup on my car and compared it to the manuals as suggested.
The one thing I noticed is that in the book the Clevis Pin is in the last (3rd) hole unlike the picture in the manual which has the Clevis Pin in the Second hole. Other than that there is no difference. I did notice that there is a sweating around the rubber seal on the Slave Cylinder. One of the manuals indicated that if the fluid happened to get low in the master cylinder that you should top it off and bleed the system. Sounds like a good first step.

Does anyone have a link for purchasing the Service Kit indicated in the manual. It looks like it isn't a big job to rebuild the Slave Cylinder unless your experience indicates otherwise.

Thank you again for your thoughts!

Kind Regards,
You won't be doing any rebuilding with that kit. Looks like aftermarket replacement master and slave cylinders among other things.
I was happy with the Master and Slave rebuild kit from TRF. Wasn't too hard. I replaced hoses at the same time. Of course, this was rebuilding a 20 year dormant TR6.

The car shifted very nicely after the initial bleed. Good luck!
You won't be doing any rebuilding with that kit. Looks like aftermarket replacement master and slave cylinders among other things.

Certainly why I'm here. Good to know that you have an eye for things like this. I wouldn't have been able to tell these were after-market. The Master Cylinder is 90 degree bend though and mine appears to be angled. I will look into the TRF catalog for the parts.
I guess what I meant was that the "SERVICE KIT" from Victoria British was not a 'rebuild' kit where you get the parts needed to replace the 'guts' inside your cylinders.
My slave has had an old seal from a Ford wheel cylinder for the last 3 years after being rebuilt in Provost Alberta while on a trip. IMHO it is far better than the seals offered that are claimed to be for our cars.

Bleeding the clutch system is incredibly easy and only takes a few minutes start to finish. First park on a grade or raise the front of the car 3 or 4 inches. This will make sure all the air will evacuate from the slave. Block the rear wheels. Check the fluid level before starting and after every 4 or 5 pumps and top off when finished bleeding. Have an assistant pump the brakes while you lay on your back and reach under the car and work the bleeder valve. You don't have to even see the bleeder valve because you will easily hear the escaping air from the system.

And use the center hole for the clevis.
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