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Clutch Problem

smaceng

Jedi Knight
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I am helping a friend with his Proteus Replicar D type which is reported to use a 1972 XJS engine and transmission (4-speed manual)with an independant rear axle. body is not aluminum, but plastic. Nice car and condition. I know, I know, a kit car, but please stay with me.
He blew out the slave cylinder, and I replaced it. bled it and it seemed OK. Now the clutch will not release all the way, as going into reverse and first, I can tell the gears are still just moving. Today I added about three turns to the slave cylinder rod, with no improvement. I set it up to begin with with slight (1/16") free play at the slave. Not enough travel to disengage, so I lengthed the slave rod.
Can the slave rod be too long? What happens then?
I realize that the input shaft bearing could be dragging, and the lump would have to come out.
Cheers, Scott in CA
 

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DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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Random thoughts:

Scott said:
is reported to use a 1972 XJS engine and transmission

mmmm.... that just don't square with the photo. No XJS 'til 1975 and it was a V-12. XJ-6, morelike.

All the "silly stuff" checked? Bleed screw on the slave at the 12-O'clock position when bled?

A too-long rod would keep the T.O. bearing against the diaphragm, for one thing.

Could the plate be stuck on the input shaft splines? Or p'raps "stuck" to the flywheel?

Did the thing shift and properly disengage prior to the slave failure?
 
OP
smaceng

smaceng

Jedi Knight
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Pedal is hard for all of the travel, so I think that rules out the need for bleeding. Right or Wrong? Is it possible to go over-center on the clutch, which is a diaphram type. I looked in the inspection hole, and the throuwout bearing, pivot, etc looked OK. As far as I know, this problem did not exist prior to the blown slave.
Scott in CA
 
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