NEWBIE

[Brosky]

A little late night testiness again??? And in front of a NEWBIE! For shame....

 

[DougF]

Does anyone have magenta?

 

[Brosky]

There is a 73 Magenta frame off restoration in Boston, MA that is absolutely gorgeous. We usually park side by side at the Day of Triumph to show the color differences, but I didn't make it this year. I'm sure that he won first place again.

 

[poolboy]

Poolboy:

Thanks, no brown wires to either relay, only one brown wire coming out of the harness anywhere near here goes to the fuse box.



Bill

My mistake, Bill. If you look at the schematic, you'll see the "bulb test relay". As you say..no brown wires.

 

[dirtbill]

Poolboy:

No big deal, I think I should start my horn tracing from the steeringwheel end anyways, am I correct that the power wire goes to the horn and the circuit is completed by the horn button grounding out?

One more question, the reverse light switch is a bit of a mining job underneath the tunnel cover which involves removing seats etc. It appears to be fed and fused from the same green wire that powers the tailights and the neutral safety switch (which is also not working). If this is the case do the two (neatral and reverse switches) impact one another?

OK so two more questions, this one is probably simple for one who understands wiring better than me. Flasher relay works for left signals but not right, all bulbs working for both signal and hazard, this cannot be a relay issue and has to involve something wired wrong in the right signal circuit. Is this correct?

Thanks guys a few more questions and I think I'll have a handle on it.

Bill

 

[DNK]

There's a neutral safety switch?

 

[dirtbill]

DNK:

That's what the wiring diagram says, but I won't be suprised when I peel the carpet and tunnel cover off and find that it's not there! (it also depends on the year, neutral switch is '75, '76 no switch)

The manual refers to two overdrive switches, a reverse switch and a seatbelt safety switch (but not a neutral safety switch) all located on the transmission housing.

I guess the only way to know for sure is dig in.

Bill

 

[DNK]

Sorry ,mines a 71 and it never even had the seatbelt buzzer when I got it. One warning, those seat safety switch can be a real pain. Best to check the archives and bypass it before it won't start and you end up scratchin your but for a day trying to figure what went wrong.

 

[tdskip]

One warning, those seat safety switch can be a real pain. Best to check the archives and bypass it before it won't start and you end up scratchin your but for a day trying to figure what went wrong.

Agreed - both Kevin and I had strange behavior that was immediately solved when we jumped the circuit related to the seat belt warning/cut off / saftey switch.

Let us know if you need the link for that.

 

[Guest]

It's a gag me with a spoon color

Put downs coming from a guy who's engine sounds like a cast iron frying pan hitting an anvil. Life is good huh Don? :lol:

.

 

[poolboy]

Poolboy:

No big deal, I think I should start my horn tracing from the steeringwheel end anyways, am I correct that the power wire goes to the horn and the circuit is completed by the horn button grounding out?

Bill, I try to visualize the horn operation as 2 circuits because it uses a relay. The circuit from the horn button to the ground on the steering rack activates the relay.
After the relay is activated, the new circuit is from the fuse thru the relay to the horns themselves. Each horn having it's own ground wire (black) to complete that circuit.
Pushing the horn button, makes a ground in that circuit (via steering column/rack/frame) and enables the relay to supply power to the horns.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

I'm not reading all the thread, but, apparently the single large pipe, with the 6/3/1 header puts out more power/torque than a dual pipe, if it is sized right.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

I'm not reading all the thread, but, apparently the single large pipe, with the 6/3/1 header puts out more power/torque than a dual pipe, if it is sized right.

I seem to recall reading the same thing. The '76 came with twin exhausts, so given the money the PO put in the car, I would lean to giving the PO credit for doing it right. Go slow on modifying the exhaust, I think a little more research is needed.

 

[dirtbill]

I'll look into the pipe issue, right now it has six into two into a large collector outletting into two (which I suppose is the end of the header) then right back into a Y to a single pipe which ends with an ugly supertrapp muffler. It's too loud, and not quite right sounding in my opinion. But still it begs the question why all the fuss over Monza (and other) exhaust systems?

As for the horn, if the relay doesn't work I suppose I can wire the horns direct if necessary. Assuming I can get that done today I will have resolved almost all the electrical issues except for the reverse lights and a couple of dash lights.

Things are looking up! Thanks for your help.

Bill

 

[DrEntropy]

I'd be for using that relay in the horn circuit, Bill. Makes for a LOT less load on the horn button contacts. If the relay is suspect, you can get a replacement from NAPA or the local auto parts house.

 

[poolboy]

I doubt if it's a problem with the relay. It's easy enough to check, though. The only problem, I've had with these old type electromagnetic relays is carbon build-up on the point style contacts. You can remove the metal weather cover and clean them up, if necessary.
I wouldn't consider running the horns w/o a relay. Not that you won't get them to sound, it's just going to be a lot of amps trying to push thru the wiring in the steering column.
You can get an electronic relay for the horn as a replacement, for just a few bucks at an auto parts store.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

No offense intended, but the wiring is over your head, you should find a mechanic, or a local club to help you with this. This is the best advice I, or anyone else in this forum can give you.

 

[Sbardon]

Bill,
I have a 76 as well, and I have the two stacked relays.

* The one with the purple wires is the Horn relay, mine is on top.
Purple +12 supply to solenoid
Purple w/Yellow +12 output to horns
Purple w/Black Earth through horn button

Press the horn button, closes to Earth, provides solenoid with earth, solenoid closes contacts, +12 supplied to horns, horns have own earth.

* The one on the bottom is the Bulb Test relay:
White w/Orange +12 supply for relay and seat belt module during starter engage
Light Green w/White Alternate earth for ERG warning light
Purple w/Silver Alternate earth for Brake, and oil warning lights
Black Earth for relay
Black Earth for solenoid

When ignition is turned to start, +12 supplied to relay, contacts close and provide an alternate ground for the EGR, Brake, oil, and seat belt warning lights(?) (module,I assume light). so they initially illuminate (can can be checked) during starting.



I only know this as I am currently trying to figure out why I have a Black w/blue wire there, it has always been disconnected.
I cannot find any mention of it on any of many schematics.
I am having issues with the seat belt system...... Anyone have any idea what it is for? I am assuming seat belt system? if so, where does it go?
Trying to get everything to work

thanks,
Stephen

 

[Got_All_4]

Also originally if that would have had an overdrive in 1976 that would have been a J type and they didn't use a relay to engage the solenoid.