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TR2/3/3A Leaf Springs
- Thread starter frankfast
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TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
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OK... The front spring attachment is technically not a bolt -it's a pin. Each end of the pin is D shaped. The outboard side accepts a nut, and a washer with a D shaped hole, which is held in place by a split pin -it keeps the leaf spring/bushing on the pin. The other end of the pin fits (tightly) into a tube in the frame and is kept from rotating by a D shaped fitting at the frame. The larger end of the pin (the d shaped 'bolt' head) ends up on the inboard side of the frame but it has a threaded hole in it for removal.
(as pictured here https://mossmotors.com/rear-suspension-driveshaft-tr2-4) -your picture shows a glob of paint in the center that almost looks like a grease fitting but is actually a threaded hole.
I helped a fellow owner remove his pins because one side of his car was about 1+1/2" lower. We were able to chase the threads, install a bolt, and with a large c-clamp various spacers, and pry bars we were able to pull the pins out and replace both springs with new. One of the new springs was not made properly, and the locating pin for the axle was rearward about an inch and had to be removed and replaced a second time (the wheel rubbed on the wheel well when lowered). We installed new pins because we felt we might ruin the old ones getting them out. When we were done, we found his car still sits 1+1/2" higher on one side.
The plug on the inner rear fender referenced by John is (IMO) a misunderstanding or bad memory on his part -although I know this to be a very rare occurrence. On the earlier cars with a sloped rear shelf, there is a plug to access the forward shock bolt. That bolt is above the frame rail, and not part of the leaf spring.
Check your new springs closely and be sure the pin (or bolt) for the rear axle is located the same distance on each leaf. I would have a pair of Moss part number 320-230 before I started. While we were replacing stuff with new, we also found one of the new shackles was made incorrectly with one of the pins to large to fit into it's cover.
Good luck, I hope it goes well.
(as pictured here https://mossmotors.com/rear-suspension-driveshaft-tr2-4) -your picture shows a glob of paint in the center that almost looks like a grease fitting but is actually a threaded hole.
I helped a fellow owner remove his pins because one side of his car was about 1+1/2" lower. We were able to chase the threads, install a bolt, and with a large c-clamp various spacers, and pry bars we were able to pull the pins out and replace both springs with new. One of the new springs was not made properly, and the locating pin for the axle was rearward about an inch and had to be removed and replaced a second time (the wheel rubbed on the wheel well when lowered). We installed new pins because we felt we might ruin the old ones getting them out. When we were done, we found his car still sits 1+1/2" higher on one side.
The plug on the inner rear fender referenced by John is (IMO) a misunderstanding or bad memory on his part -although I know this to be a very rare occurrence. On the earlier cars with a sloped rear shelf, there is a plug to access the forward shock bolt. That bolt is above the frame rail, and not part of the leaf spring.
Check your new springs closely and be sure the pin (or bolt) for the rear axle is located the same distance on each leaf. I would have a pair of Moss part number 320-230 before I started. While we were replacing stuff with new, we also found one of the new shackles was made incorrectly with one of the pins to large to fit into it's cover.
Good luck, I hope it goes well.
I got a set of leaf springs from Moss a couple years ago. They look exactly like the your picture with the rebound springs 1/4+" above the top leaf. I was concerned about this myself and even posted on this forum about the issue.(try a search) I went to a spring shop and showed them the gap and they assured me that it was not an issue. I have been driving my TR3 for 2 years now and the springs are functioning as they should.
The spring on the passenger side has a label with the same part number that is in the Moss catalogue. The driver side leaf spring has a label but the print on it is gone. I'm tempted to get just one spring from Moss to see if the car levels out. But who knows if Moss is using the same manufacturer that made the existing spring. If it doesn't level I could order another so I have a matched set. If the car still is not level then the whole exercise would be a waste
This is the drawing I sent to him. Said the material he would use was not the same as called out by the drawing but would be better because steel has technology has improved in the last 50 years.
David
David
Was able to pry the bolt out enough to get the spring off using the carpenters favorite tool - The Wonder Bar. Using a wedge on the nut side in order to get it started, I had to break the bolt free of the undercoating or whatever that black material is that was sprayed on the frame. I tried to get a 5/16 bolt into the head per manual but the coating messed up the threads and the tap I had was too long. The diagonal cross member impedes any working room, especially when laying on your back. Makes it all worthwhile.
What is a "Wonder Bar"?...a pry bar? That undercoating must have prevented the bolt from rusting in place. Normally you have to soak it for days in penetrating oil. I had to drill mine out.
A "Wonder Bar" is a type of pry bar. It's about 1 1/2 wide and flat, bent 90 degrees on one end and slightly curved on the other. Like a "cats paw" it is used for pulling nails. I don't know if they make them anymore. This one has to be at least forty years old.
The car was very clean under due to an eight year old renovation so the nuts and bolts came out easily. There is a hole in the frame cross member that allows the front bolt to be removed completely. The problem was that the restorer ran the fuel line through it. I was able to back the bolt out far enough to release the spring. The spring is now out of the car. It came out fairly easily but looks to be an adventure to get the new one in.
The car was very clean under due to an eight year old renovation so the nuts and bolts came out easily. There is a hole in the frame cross member that allows the front bolt to be removed completely. The problem was that the restorer ran the fuel line through it. I was able to back the bolt out far enough to release the spring. The spring is now out of the car. It came out fairly easily but looks to be an adventure to get the new one in.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Isn't there a hole in that diagonal member aligned with the head of the pin specifically to allow the use of long tools (e.g. the all-thread used to pull the pin)?
Yes, but like I mentioned in my previous post, the previous owner/restorer ran the fuel line through it so I couldn't back the bolt out completely. But I was able to remove it far enough to release the spring.
Just received the new leaf spring from Moss. I'm changing out the driver side spring only because the body on the driver side sags about 1 1/2" in the back. There is a difference between the new and the existing. There is a 1/4" space between the top leaf and the four clamps that hold the new spring together. On the existing springs, the clamps are tight around the leaves. Would anyone know the reason for this?
Yes.
Unfortunately the new spring did not solve the problem. The body still is lower on the drivers side than the passenger side by 1 1/4". So now I'll have to take some measurements of the frame in order to see if it is tweaked or maybe the body does not sit correctly on the frame. I don't think that it can be shimmed that much to correct the difference. Something is not right.
Unfortunately the new spring did not solve the problem. The body still is lower on the drivers side than the passenger side by 1 1/4". So now I'll have to take some measurements of the frame in order to see if it is tweaked or maybe the body does not sit correctly on the frame. I don't think that it can be shimmed that much to correct the difference. Something is not right.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
1¼" is a lot of difference. The only times I have had a noticeable droop was a broken spring or a perished front eye bushing.
Yep. A close measurement and comparison side-to-side must surely reveal the point of difference.
Yep. A close measurement and comparison side-to-side must surely reveal the point of difference.
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