How tight should the steering wheel nut be?

[djwoody]

Hi All,

I have spent the past couple months renewing my TR4A dash and steering. Both were significantly bigger projects than I expected, but worth the effort!

Since I had to remove the upper steering column to replace the dash, I decided to use the opportunity to renew the bushings and felt pads and replace my old cracked steering wheel with a new wooden one. My steering was wobbly so it needed to be done anyway.

Other than struggling with a few stubborn bolts everything went quite well. I eventually got everything aligned and reinstalled and the steering is nice and tight. So tight in fact that it's hard to turn the wheel. The new steering wheel came with a hub and hardly any instructions - I'm pretty sure it is correctly installed, but I can't tighten the nut all the way or the wheel binds against the column. Am I doing something wrong or is it normal to have to back off the nut a bit? I am worried it could work itself loose eventually while driving. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Andrew Mace]

You want the nut securing the wheel to be snug. That said, I don't see a torque spec. for it in my manual.

Likely what's happened is that, since it's a different wheel with likely a slightly different depth, you might need to loosen the "safety clamp" and pull the wheel/column assembly out just a wee bit.

See #8-13 in the bottom center of this catalog page from Canley Classics (it's for Spitfire, but the columns are essentially the same).

Likely you'll be able to just loosen the two bolts, slide the column where it needs to go, and retighten those bolts to 6-8 lb./ft.

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, the Stag manual gives 32 ftlb for that nut, which seems reasonable to me too. You're quite right, you don't want that joint moving around.

 

[Andrew Mace]

...and I should have looked further. I did find a spec. in my GT6/Vitesse 2L workshop manual (again, same column) 28-30 lb./ft. for the "Steering wheel attachment"! [Note to self: next time, dig down below the top of the pile. :laugh: ]

 

[djwoody]

I'll try pulling the upper column out a little further. Having those torque specs is helpful too. Thanks.

I have to say, I don't like the "universal" hub that came with this wheel. It came from Victoria British. It has a cheap plastic shroud and I also can't figure out how I am supposed to connect the horn brush or cable to the new button that came with it. Perhaps I should post some close-up pics so that you guys can see what I am dealing with.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I bet that they will be great pictures.

Cheers,
Tush

 

[djwoody]

Thanks David. Actually the photos are not great quality - I took them in a dark garage with my wife's point-and-shoot. But they do show what I'm talking about.

You can see from the shot of the back of the hub, there is nowhere for the horn wiring or brush to go, yet the there is a connector at the back of the button. Go figure???

Also, not sure if you can tell, but I don't think there is much if any room, for the inner column to move outward.

This wheel & hub was Victoria British item # 15-752 which according to them is specifically for my car.

Anyone else had similar issues?

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

DW,

Not too happy with the look of that boss for the wheel as it looks pretty cheaply made and looks to be bowed around the circumference....Did you just buy this from VB? I have a moto lita on both my 6 and my 3 and the boss is made of pretty sturdy metal and does have a provision for the horn brush in my 6. My 3 uses the stock control head with the moto lita so it is a little different.

Cheers,
Tush

 

[toysrrus]

Hi Folks,

I was looking at DW Locknut & noticed something. I took off the wheel on my TR3 (Non-Adjustable) a few wks. back & remembered (Then) to replace the Locknut exactly as I removed it. On one side of the nut there are those "3" little dimples & on the other side of the nut; Sort of a Recess.

Of course; I did`nt take a pic or write down which side of that nut I should be looking at when re-installed.

Who can confirm this & If it makes any difference?

Thanx, Russ

 

[djwoody]

Thanks guys,

I loosened the safety clamp, pulled out the inner column about 1/16" and now I can tighten the steering wheel nut without it binding the wheel against the outer column. Everything feels right now. Just have to wait until spring for a road-test. I also figured out that if I remove the plastic "disc" at the bottom of the hub, it should (in principal) allow me to connect the horn wire to the horn push button. My battery is trickle charging in my office warehouse so can't test that yet either.

 

[djwoody]

One more question. I don't have the special tool or correct size socket to use my torque wrench on the steering wheel nut. I was able to make it pretty tight using an adjusting spanner.

In the Haynes workshop manual, it states to "peen the metal of the nut to the inner column to prevent the nut working loose".

Does anyone know what they mean by "peen the metal"?

 

[Twosheds]

Does anyone know what they mean by "peen the metal"?

Push the nut metal over into the column. Use a center punch or equivalent and a BFH.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

" peening the metal over" borders on insanity. The dimples in the nut are made by a center punch as a locking device , they stress the threads enough so the nut won't just spin off . There should be a resistance when screwing the nut down . Use a few drops of red locktite is you like. Kevin

 

[Number_6]

How tight should the steering wheel nut be?

I think the nut behind the steering wheel shouldn't be 'tight' at all. It's been my experience that the nut behind the steering wheel should always be completely sober.

 

[djwoody]

the nut behind the steering wheel should always be completely sober.

Hilarious!

I was thinking of using some locktite - I don't want to damage the nut so I don't think I will "peen" the metal.

 

[djwoody]

So, now for the moment of truth!

The dash and steering winter restoration project is complete and I must say it looks darn better than it did before the winter. This was my first project with the TR4A - I previously stripped a TR6, but never got around to putting it back together - so I am pretty satisfied with what I managed to do on my own.

Seeing the weather is decent again (hope it stays that way) I plan on putting the battery back in this weekend, crossing fingers and hoping everything works. I'm confident it will start but it will be interesting to see if all the gauges and electrical connections function - I disconnected and removed them all.

Wish me luck

 

[DNK]

How tight should the steering wheel nut be?

I think the nut behind the steering wheel shouldn't be 'tight' at all. It's been my experience that the nut behind the steering wheel should always be completely sober.

Thank you Dj . That only took upteen post before the real answer was revealed

 

[djwoody]

So, this afternoon I put the battery back in, rolled the car out of the garage and held my breath. After quite a few tries and a little smoke coming from the starter solenoid (is that something to be concerned about???) the engine fired up. To my surprise, all the gauges are working perfectly and the car sounds and feels good. I went for a short drive and the steering is OK and everything feels normal.

The only issues are that the horn won't work and neither will the fan motor or windshield wipers. I'll have to do some fault-tracing next weekend. Also, my turn signals won't cancel by themselves - I was sure I had the little bump properly aligned. I'll have to check that out as well, but overall I'm pretty satisfied with my work.

Here are some photos...

 

[Andrew Mace]

...and a little smoke coming from the starter solenoid (is that something to be concerned about???)

Often as not, that's an indication that the connection(s) could be cleaner; just a matter of removing, cleaning and replacing same.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Thats a nice lookin Tr4 . Dash is rockin too. Love the colore too . It looks a little darker than signal red. Kevin