General Tech Knockoffs way to tight

[mallard]

This was the second year of driving the TR3, about 3000 miles and it took a real beating to get the spinners off. First year I only did around 500 miles and they came right off. I used a 5LB dead blow hammer to get them off using both hands. The rears wheels were not as bad as the front. No way I could get them off with the tires off the ground with the brakes on. I even heated the front spinners with a heat gun. I used a liberal coating of Valvoline high temp bearing grease on the hubs. Should I try a different grease or more off it? I've read you should tighten the spinners every 300 miles or so, no need on my car. Any Ideas?

 

[Geo Hahn]

Keith - They are self-tightening -- if you doubt that make marks with a Sharpie on the spinner and wheel and be amazed how much tighter they get as you drive.

That said, I have never known my TR knock-offs to get overly tight - unlike my Jaguar which get so tight I have to use a 6# lead hammer that I don't so much swing as just lift and drop back down.

In the case of the Jaguar I suspect it is aftermarket spinners which do not meet the taper of the wheels as perfectly as they should. I do not know if some TR spinners fit better than others.

You mention grease on the hubs - in my opinion the most important grease area for ease of removal is the outer taper on the end of the wheel and the big groove in the spinner that mates with it. I believe those surfaces are the source of the friction you're fighting. I use anti-seize there (and on the splines).

Rather than tightening them every 300 miles, sounds like you should be loosening them every 300 miles (and then re-tightening).

 

[mallard]

Thanks Geo, I'll try the anti seize on the tappers next time. By the way I passed on the Jag but a friend of mine is trying to work out a deal on the five of them. Thanks for all the information on that subject.

 

[glemon]

I have tried a couple dead blow hammers and have never been too impressed, I know some love and recommend them, but I feel ai get much more bang for the bang out of my old lead sledge. I can't imagine a knock-off being so tight that the 3 lb lead hammer wouldn't take it off. In me experience the first few blows never seem to do much on a fully tightened knock off, but eventually they it will start to move perceptibly then eventually free up enough to be spun off the rest of the way by hand. I always started them with the car on the ground to the wheel won't turn. Agree about the anti-seize as well, it also doesn't tend to creep out onto the spokes due to the combination of heat and centrifugal force.

 

[GTP1960]

Are you using a wooden laminate knock off wrench?
TRF # CCP1098
for me, it is worth the money.

 

[mallard]

Guy I did try the wood wrench and promptly destroyed it, but thanks for the input.

 

[GTP1960]

You must have something else going on.
maybe the camber ?
Might try discussing with Allen Hendrix of Hendrix wheels.
anybody have an answer, he would.

[SIZE=-1]allen@hendrixwirewheel.com

good luck with that![/SIZE]

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, I had much the same thing happen on the Stag. Wheels, splines and knockoffs all replaced with new; generously coated with cheap anti-seize. About a year later, I had to stop for new tires on the way to VTR 2005 (about 5000 miles round-trip for me). The knockoffs were incredibly tightly bound to the threads; even after the wheel was loose on the splines, the knockoff would barely move with each blow. Three of us took turns with a big lead hammer!

No corrosion or damage evident once they were off. I blame the lubricant. Unfortunately, though, the engine blew a head gasket before the trip was over, and it's been sitting in my driveway ever since. Some day Real Soon Now I'll tackle the rebuild, but not this year ...

 

[MadMarx]

I had the same problem using wing nuts.
With the standard 8 flat nut and the tool for it it is no problem.
But that is past, I've moved on to aluminum wheels.

 

[mallard]

Well I guess it's not an uncommon problem to have. I'll try another type of lube and hope that it helps, and purchase a good lead hammer. I'll also back off the spinner more frequently. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...and purchase a good lead hammer...

This is where I got the 6 pound bad boy I use:

https://www.zoro.com/american-hammer-sledge-hammer-6-lb-12-in-aluminum-am6lnag/i/G5312264/

The company has a recasting service when it finally gets too beat up to use - though I know some recast their own.

 

[mallard]

Thanks George, do you carry that hammer in the car with you? Looks deadly.

 

[Geo Hahn]

In the car. Wouldn't be much point in having it at home on the pegboard when I really need it:

Had to be the most scenic spot for a breakdown I have ever 'enjoyed'.

PS - Zion Canyon

 

[mallard]

I figured so and thanks for the picture. Looks like you got part of a dresser with you.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Does look a bit like a dresser drawer. The E-Type tail is a beautiful shape but not conducive to lots of tall boot space like the Triumphs. The biggest part is buried under the rear deck so to make good use of it I built a box to fit in there:

 

[mallard]

Perfect idea for a tool chest. It's great to see an E-type being used the way it's supposed to be. You probably had a hard time keeping up with the TR6 in front of you.

 

[Got_All_4]

My Tr250 HAD wires on it and drove it 9 years like that. Experienced every horrible thing you just read about knock offs. Beat on them for minutes just to get the nut to start to turn. Then beat, kick and pry on the wheel to get it off the splines. I used grease, high end never seize in copper, aluminum and ceramic with temp ranges in the teens. Nothing worked! I got so disgusted with them I bought a 5 wheel set of Mini Lite look alights and boy did they trans form my cars ride too. Drives like a modern car and no worries of getting those %&(^%#$& knock offs off.