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TR2/3/3A Re-torque my rebuilt TR-3 head

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K

Koopster

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My rebuilt Tr-3 has now 500 miles on it.

I need to re-torque the cylinder head bolts on this engine. I do not know the correct way to do this. Do I just set the torque wench to 105 lbs. and see if the bolts tighten more or do I need to first loosen the head bolts back down to like 75 lbs. then bring it up to the recommended torque level?

This should be a easy one for you form member.

Thanks, John
 
Koopster,

I don't know about the official or correct way to do it, but I just rechecked the torque (ie did not loosen them).

Scott
 
Torque readings should be taken with the fastener moving; meaning the 'official' method is to loosen each bolt and then retighten it.
 
See told you mine wasn't the official *or* correct way. :smile:

Scott
 
Re-torque them down dry - wipe any oil off the head nuts inside the valve cover before loosening them.

Potential trouble if the manifold side head nuts get re-torqued dry and the inside nuts are re-torqued with oily washers.

Then check the tappet clearances.

Viv.
 
so would you loosen all first and retorque all or loosen one retorque, and go to next bolt in the official sequence
 
PeterK said:
I'd do them one at a time following the torque sequence.
Click to expand...
:iagree:
 
Thanks for all your input. I can see that there is really a lot to consider when re-torque the cylinder head bolt. It looks like I need to first back off all the nuts in the reverse order of tighten, then clean the the nuts and washers of the bolt exposed to the lub oil then re-tighten them in sequence.
Thank again for all the help.
If anyone thinks of some thing else to consider, please chime in.
John
 
Personally, John, I think it's much better to do them one at a time. That way, there is no chance of breaking the seal between gasket and head, which could potentially allow coolant to leak during the process.

IMO, just wiping off the oil won't make enough difference to matter. To really get a "dry" condition, you'd have to degrease both surfaces ... too much work. I have always just torqued them "as is" and never had a problem without a more obvious explanation (like liner protrusion).

I'm not saying the oil does not make a difference. But the difference is that the oily fasteners wind up clamping the head harder for the same applied torque. This is not a problem unless the studs start to stretch, and the factory studs appear to be plenty strong enough to carry a little extra torque.
 
A follow up question -- Is removal of the rockershaft accomplished merely by loosening the nuts on the pedestals one turn at a time as to avoid undue tension on the shaft caused by open valve springs? Any added tidbits regarding the removal and reinstallation of the shaft? Anyone know the torque setting for the pedestal nuts? I suppose a valve adjustment job is in my future. Thanks all!
 
That will work. Torque is specified as 24-26 ft-lb; and of course you set the valves afterwards (although they should be close).

The book shows split lockwashers under those nuts, but I prefer to use hardened flat washers. The lockwashers really tear up the pedestals, and I've never had a problem with the nuts backing off.
 
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