Pulling Engine

[Norton47]

Well I used the leak down tester I built, and the results make it the most expensive tool I own. It confirmed what I had guessed, a very tired engine. I spoke with a local machine shop that does TR 6 engines. If I pull it, strip it down and take it to them, $1500 to $2500, depending on required parts, including the thrust bearing fix, balance and cleaning up all manifold surfaces. Seems almost to good, but they do come recommended by a local Triumph club member and mechanic. So far I have not been steered wrong.

I pulled the differential last night and took it to the shop this morning. SO that is under way.

I am pretty sure I am going to pull the engine Saturday and take it in.
Do you really have to take the frame cross member out to pull the engine tranny combo, as it says in the Bentley's?

 

[tomshobby]

Yes, but it is not difficult. Just remove the bolts, three on each side for the frame and one on each side for the front braces, and jack the car under the center of the permanent frame cross member just enough so it fully supports the car. That should cause the frame to spread enough so the cross member can be slid out.

Assuming that you have already removed the crank pulley.

 

[DougF]

I would suggest pulling the transmission with the engine. It isn't that much work, and easier in the long run.
It will be easier to unbolt the two units as the location of split makes it a little difficult accessing the fasteners due to the firewall. It is also easier to line up the cluch and input shaft.

 

[Guest]

I have pulled my engine/tranny combo several times by myself. Not that difficult. A suggestion is to remove the front wheels and lower the car as far as possible in the front with some really short jack stands. Then raise the rear with taller stands. You will want to run your engine hoist (assuming you are using a mobile hoist on wheels with the leg extensions that stick way out in front.) up under the car to check for clearance of the suspension against the legs of the hoist. Adjust accordingly. You definitely will need a sturdy hoist that has good extension of the arm and has the ability to change the angle of the bar. Remove the valve cover as you will scar it with the chains. Make sure that your lifting eyes on the engine are secure. The engine/tranny combo with come out at a very extreme angle and you will need the ability to adjust that angle while hoisting (and inserting). Make sure you hoist has the proper amount of jack fluid and can handle extreme loads without dropping scary fast. Practice with something really heavy first on the ground, like you riding mower or the wife's Camry.

Piece of cake while underway. Just check and recheck everything is disconnected first. I even pulled mine with headers, though a bit tedious.

 

[Guest]

What he said. Getting to the bolts to take off the tranny in situ is a pita.

It's also a good time to replace the clutch.

 

[Norton47]

Well, I have most of the ancillary stuff out of the way.
The plan was to pull the engine and tranny together.
Clutch has been replaced earlier this year.
Tilting the engine while pulling, I wish I had that unit that's in Moss Motors. Wonder if I can rent one.
Maybe a comelong would suffice?
Also where is the drain for the engine block located? Can't find what I expected some kind of schrader type valve.
Here's some pic's of the leak down tester that started it all and the crowded garage.

I am also stripping a hardtop, so I can take it to the painters. Busy, Busy.
Oh that's the 47 Norton in the background.

 

[Norton47]

Hmmm pic's abit cropped

Here's alink
https://s225.photobucket.com/albums/dd50/Norton47/Engine%20Pull/

 

[mrv8q]

I envy the contents of your garage.....

 

[Guest]

Tilting the engine while pulling, I wish I had that unit that's in Moss Motors. Wonder if I can rent one.
Maybe a comelong would suffice?

There is no way you want to pull the engine without the ability to tilt the whole thing while on the hoist. If you can't rent one, buy one. They aren't that expensive. I bought one for the owner of the hoist that I borrowed (three times), think it was under 100 bucks. Pulling it is not so much the trick, it is re-installing that becomes tricky. Tilt, drop, push. Tilt, drop, push. Tilt, drop, push.

The noises I emitted the first time sounded much like the same noises when my wife had our first child - Breath, push, breath, push! Easy for me to say.

 

[TR3driver]

Maybe a comelong would suffice?

Can definitely be done. Use a length of log chain through the hook, and a couple of big taper punches (or similar) stuck through the links to keep the chain from sliding through the hook on the come-along. Then you can pry the chain through the hook, one link at a time, to tilt the engine.

I've pulled quite a few engines that way, including a TR6.

 

[Norton47]

Well the engine's out. I ended up pulling it in two parts, as I had everything opened up, I lifted the trans up at the rear and slid it back and pulled the engine forward and up.
I used my new 3/8 impact ratchet and my daughter to hold the bolts to take the trans bolts out. Any way it's out and at the shop.
Good input on thinking about putting it back in. Thanks!

I have some drivers side floor pan rust repair. appears to have rusted from the inside. Welded in 2 patches for now and will PO 15 every thing.
The Diff is in the shop and inspection revels that the right forward diff mount has small cracks where the stud goes through the lower part of the mount. I will need to get that welded up and boxed in.

My trans which was rebuilt and installed just 4 months ago has a very leaky front seal.

The shaft seems tight, should I just inspect for roughness in the shaft or something that might have nicked the seal and replace it or is it indicating a more serious problem?

I am also eyeing the engine compartment and cleaning and painting it. Wiring that was added by previous owner needs redone. Always something to do.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[TR3driver]

My trans which was rebuilt and installed just 4 months ago has a very leaky front seal.

The shaft seems tight, should I just inspect for roughness in the shaft or something that might have nicked the seal and replace it or is it indicating a more serious problem?

Look carefully both before and after you take it apart, to try to see where it's really leaking. Might not be the front seal at all, since it can also leak at the flange between the front cover & main housing, or even the bolts for the front cover (since they penetrate into the gear housing). There's also a smaller cover below the front cover that can leak (& also has bolts that penetrate).

But if the shaft feels good (no roughness or excess play in the bearings) then I doubt it's anything worse. Check where the seal rides on the shaft, and replace the seal. Wrap the splines with masking tape, starting at the rear & working towards the front (so it overlaps from front to back, no edges for the seal to catch on), before installing the front housing. Smear the seal lips & the shaft with your favorite assembly lube. Be sure to remove the tape & clean any stuck adhesive (but good painter's masking tape won't leave any).

I don't recall offhand what the TR6 used to seal those bolts, but earlier Triumphs used lead washers. I smeared the threads with Hylomar then used copper washers (from HF) on mine.