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TR6 Pulling TR6 Engine

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hondo402000

hondo402000

Darth Vader
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Well the time has arrived, I am planning on pulling the engine in my TR6 in the next few weekends and ship it off to be rebuilt. I am trying to figure the easiest way to pull the engine, I have a warehouse( same place I painted my car last fall this time) we have a fork lift that I plan on using to lift the engine out. I purchased a tilt mechanism from harbor freight. I will put the car on 4 jack stands for access. Only question I have so far is where do I bolt the tilting devise to the engine? I guess to make things easy I shall pull the passenger seat out, carpet, trans tunnel to un bolt the transmission. thats as far as I have thought about it.

Hondo
 
Sounds like you're missing the lifting brackets. Mine bolted to the block just behind the water pump in front and on the drivers side in back.
 
Hondo-
Here are pics of the lifting brackets. One on the passenger side just behind the water pump, and one on the drivers side at rear of engine by the fire wall....
 

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I was looking thru some pics on my computer and I think I spotted the one on the drivers side rear, but I cannot see from the pic if there is a front one, I will check it when I get home

if any one has a pic of one for the front, if mine is missing I will have to fab one up

Hondo
 
I like to strip an engine down when I take them out for rebuild. They are coming out anyway and a few minutes with an impact gets a lot of excess baggage out of the way.

It also leaves less in the way of the lift devices to get damaged.

Here is hoe I did mine.
 
You said you were putting it up on jacks stands. I've found that it worked easier for me while lifting the engine and trans out to just push the car backwards as I lifted the Eng/trans out. I have a trolley mounted hoist that slides across the shop with one hand but seem to have more control by just pushing the body back as I need it to. The tilt mechanism is nice to use but not required. After the hood is off, my record for having one out and sitting in the floor, 45 minutes. Thats on a good day. Doubt I can do it any more.

Marv
 
Since I am shipping the engine out to be rebuilt, I want to ship it complete, everything bolted on except for the tranny, I was hoping by putting the car on jack stands that I could get the engine and tranny out as a complete unit and not have to pull the interior out, and since I have a new flywheel I will take the flywheel off to save weight, build a palet to set the engine on and bolt is down and then build plywood box around it, my rebuilder is going to run the engine in and put it on a dyno too and the plan is to jet my webers in and get the AF ratio correct. I could probably pull the engine in one weekend just dont want to mess up my new paint job, still not a single scratch in it! Maybe repaint the engine bay too.

Hondo
 
Engine can be pulled fairly easy w/o trans, the bad part is putting it back together with trans in car. That can be done as well but its not as easy. The trans alignment is bad enough when putting it on the engine but trying to put the engine to the trans is/can be a bear. AS you probably know, to pull eng/tran together, the seats and trans cover need to come out.

Marv
 
Marvin Gruber said:
Engine can be pulled fairly easy w/o trans, the bad part is putting it back together with trans in car.
Click to expand...
And do you feel that can be done on a TR6 without removing the transmission tunnel? I've not tried it on a TR6, but it borders on impossible on a Stag (which does not have a removable tunnel). You basically have to let the engine hang down at a 30 degree angle while you first mate the gearbox and then try to install all those bolts & nuts in a space that isn't big enough (for my arms at least).

IMO, on a TR6, it's going to be a lot easier to just remove the interior and get on with pulling the engine & gearbox as a unit. Even with the interior out, it's no fun trying to mate engine & gearbox with them in the car. SO much easier outside, where there is room to work (and see what you are doing at the same time).
 
Randall

I never done a Stag but you can get to all the hardware around the trans on a TR6 while in the car. Tried it one time years ago, engine out easy but pulled the trans out and matched it up before replacing. I've probably done this 20 times or more on 6's, not counting 3's and 4's. Getting too old to fight the lineup, I'll always put the trans and engine together first before installing. I do like putting a unit in w/o head, that goes real easy. Don't get to do that to often. That makes me think. You can leave the exhaust manifold attached, just pull it over to the inner fender and wire it there. You will have to pull the starter to clear. But if you are going to clean/paint the engine bay, then pull the exhaust.

Marv
 
TR3driver said:
IMO, on a TR6, it's going to be a lot easier to just remove the interior and get on with pulling the engine & gearbox as a unit. Even with the interior out, it's no fun trying to mate engine & gearbox with them in the car. SO much easier outside, where there is room to work (and see what you are doing at the same time).
Click to expand...

I can attest to that Randall.... Back in March I pulled both seats out of my TR6 and pulled the transmission. I installed a Toyota trans with the engine in the car. Doable, but not fun.
As Randall says it is easier outside the car...
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Maybe repaint the engine bay too. [/QUOTE]

Hondo you must!!! You'll be kicking yourself if you don't later on.
 
If your going to remove the engine and trans together I would remove the carbs, alt, radiator, fan, fan hub extension, dist,accelerator shaft and shift lever. Remember the angle required to get the engine and trans out is steep so make sure nothing can slide on the forks. Use blankets around to engine bay to avoid damage, fingers will heal.

I think it's much easier to remove the trans from the engine before removal. You can have the interior and trans off the car in 3 hours or less. Fewer parts have to be removed if you do it this way. I don't think it is any big deal to install the trans to the engine while it's in the car. Before I had the overdrive I used to do it myself laying on my back. It's getting to heavy with the OD installed.

After seeing your paint and prep work this should be an easy job for you.
 
well I just checked the engine and both lifting eyes are on the engine. I also plan on pulling everything out of the engine bay, radiator, shroud, front support brace, loosen the steering rack, maybe pull it too. Might as well take the seat out and pull the tunnel, transmission is comming out to I have to replace the oil seals in the transmission, I think they are source of my leak. Once going pics will be posted

thanks for all the advice

Hondo
 
Better get the camera out soon too. We're all getting anxious.
 
I may be doing the same this winter to do some work I should have done two years ago when I pulled both. I removed the hood, radiator and those braces, along with the carbs & manifold (not necessary but makes it easier. The interior was also pulled to access the tranny as was the exhaust.

Here's a few pictures and, for the money, I found the Oberg tilt an invaluable help. It lets you quickly and easily adjust the tilt.......and I know that there's other things out there that do the same thing.

EngineWoodBlock.jpg


ObergTilt.jpg


EngineAlmostOut.jpg
 
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