OOS Upper Link

[Morris]

Now with triangulation and grease zerks... Just like a big boy car!

 

[aeronca65t]

Details!.....We need details!

 

[Morris]

It was really pretty simple (in concept, difficult in execution). I disassembled a shock leaving the arm attached to the shaft. I removed an arm from a shock from the opposite side. I drilled and tapped the shaft to accept a 1/2" bolt. I drilled out the unattached arm to 7/8" and used spacers from Lowe's to make up the difference in diameter between 7/8 and 1/2. While the shaft was out of the shock body, I drilled and tapped zerks. Once assembled, the spacing between the two arm ends (by sheer luck) is perfect. Installation requires relocating the brake line and cutting out a piece of the gusset aft of the shock.

I will take a close up picture of the uninstalled passenger side link and everything will make much more sense.

 

[JPSmit]

looks great!

 

[nomad]

I've noticed that racers commonly try to triangulate the top link so I assume that the single arm is a weak point. Look's like a good way to remedy that.

Kurt.

 

[Morris]

Here is the picture I promised. Kurt, to your point, triangulation is probably not that big of a deal for a daily driver. The main problem I set out to solve was grease-able links. As my car has a tube shock conversion, oil was only in my shock to provide lube. I was sick of the mess the oil made (the shocks leak by design unless they have been rebuilt by PeterC). The triangulation was an added bonus. It's interesting driving the car with one side converted. The converted side is definitely tighter and quieter than the non-converted side. The non-converted side makes much more noise under braking.

Funny story: about half-way to work yesterday, my spidey senses started tingling. Sure enough, I pop the hood at work and the one shock mount bolt is not tightened and the other two are only air-wrench tight (roughly 10 ft-lbs). Whoops. Good thing I keep a tool box in the boot.

 

[Branson]

wheres the like button at?