MGB New questions...Front and Rear Suspension

[GaryBeu]

This concerns the 1971 MGB...

OK... the front suspension is done as far as I can tell with cleaning, painting, new bushings, new bolts, and torqued down. Only question is the outer A-arm bolt/nut where it attaches to the lower part of the swivel axel. Someone told me 28 ft/lbs of torque but the nut is well past the cotter pin hole...doen't seem correct. Should I back it out so the pin is in the castellated nut and just go with it being a little loose?

Rear suspension...My U-bolts are loose and one lower bracket that supports the rear shock arm is bent. I'm replacing all U-bolts, spring pads, and the bracket. I have jack stands under the rear axle. How do I support the spring so that I can loosen/remove the U-bolts and replace pads and bracket? Should I support the spring somewhere with a floor jack or what?

As always, ANY suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Gary
ps. I'm really hoping to do this job tomorrow (Sunday) !!

 

[JPSmit]

Don't think it is super critical how you do it Gary, probably easiest to support it so the axle doesn't drop. If possible though if you can tighten while the car is on the ground - then it is "naturally stressed."

 

[PAUL161]

Gary, Support the axle just enough to keep it from moving. Loosen the U bolts, jack one side up enough where you can see no spring tension on the perch bracket and put a jack stand under that side. Do the same on the other side. Remove the U bolts, (do one side at a time) and install the new pads and bolts. Tighten the bolts but don't torque them up until the entire weight of the car is on the spring. Torque the bolts and your ready to go. (USE JACK STANDS! DON'T GET UNDER THE CAR WITHOUT THEM!!) PJ

 

[GaryBeu]

Paul, I'm sorta lost with the explaination...Are you saying "don't have full weight of the axel on jack stands"? What is the 'perch bracket'? Where do I "jack up one side"? Do I put the jack stand under the spring? And...do you know what torque I use on the bolts?

I'm toatally ignorant on a lot of things so please be gentle with me

 

[PAUL161]

Gary, I'll try to explain it a little better. I'll change the procedure a little to make it easier to understand. Do one side at a time. Jack up the car around where the original jack position is on the side. Since you are only doing the rear, put the jack slightly behind the original jacking point. Jack the car up to relieve any weight on the spring, then loosen the U bolts and take the nuts off. You might have to remove the bottom rebound strap to get the lower plate off, when that's done, lower the car slightly to place a gap between the spring and rear housing (perch bracket). Remove the U bolts and rubber pads. There should be one on the top of the spring and one on the bottom, Place the new U bolts in place, replace the old pads with the new ones #20 in the same position the old ones came off. To aid you in this, look at Mosses diagram in the suspension section in case you forget which goes on first. Tighten up the U bolts pretty tight making sure the spring bolt head goes in the perch bracket hole, but remember that after the weight is on the spring, you need to re-tighten the U bolt nuts again before you drive the car. Tighten the nuts in sequence as to keep the lower plate even. I brush a little never seize on the threads. The actual torque specs I forgot as I just tighten them tight with an impact wrench. When that side is done and back together, do the other. PJ

As said before, USE JACK STANDS! don't trust just a jack!

Moss diagram;

 

[GaryBeu]

Thanks Paul...I think I understand now. AND I always use jack stands....even a really good floor jack can slip or whatever and I DON'T WANT to be there !!!

 

[GaryBeu]

Well, I must be an idiot...I~thought~I had everything in the front suspension back together properly until I just now tried to attach the new tie-rod ends !! Please take a look at the photos and tell me what's wrong. Do I have the sway bar hooked up incorrectly? As you can see, the tie-rod end is crooked to the steering arm. I'm flummoxed. Thanks.

 

[GaryBeu]

Another DUHHH in my life. I didn't realize that the tie-rod end pivoted. Once I learned that, I moved it until it fit. Learning all the time !!!

 

[Tugboat]

Gary,

Not to worry. I had precisely the same "Oh F&#*, now what do I do," moment last weekend and the same resolution as you.

Mike

 

[fixitright]

Gary

In my experience it is important to remain safe. When working on a detriot type car thet weighs 3000+ ponds it is normally safe on jackstands. But your Brittish car does not weigh that much. The point I'm making is that you can actually push your Britmobile off the jack stands by simply pushing too hard on a stiff bolt (the kind you find on rear spring "U" bolts). I have, at times to feel safe, put a large round peice of fire wood under the car in case it tipps off the jackstands I will not be crushed.

 

[GaryBeu]

fixitright...
I definitely understand THAT!!! I have it all done now and it wasn't a bad job at all. Learning all the time