TR2/3/3A Questions on fuel pump installation

[TuffTR250]

I have a couple of questions on installing new fuel pump on TR3:
1) What is the step by step procedure for installing the fuel pump?
a) Concern 1: to ensure lever is on top of cam lobe.
b) Do I need to remove the breather tube from the engine.
c) Should I install my new studs into the engine before trying too get the fuel pump to match up with the studs? Or should I put the pump up to the engine and install studs along with the pump? Reason for question C>> The new studs are quite long and the pump is hindered from going over the studs by the steering column mounts being in the way.

2) Question on new fuel pump studs from Moss. The overall length of the new studs = 1-3/8 inches end to end. The overall length of the original studs is 1-5/16 end to end. But the main problem I see is that the coarse threaded section of the new studs is only 3/8" long, where as the original is 9/16" long. Thus making the new stud protrude from the engine 3/4" whereas the original protrudes 1/2" from the engine. So even though it allows for more length for the washers and nuts to fit over the fuel pump, it will make it more difficult to get the fuel pump over the studs due to interference from the steering column mounts. The question is, will these longer studs present a problem and therefore need to be returned to Moss, or will the longer protrusion not present a problem?

Thanks for the help!
p.s. I'm attempting to install the fuel pump without getting under the car.
Bob

 

[sp53]

Yes the pump can be a pain, and those studs are small to get washers and that one clip for the oil line. Sounds like your studs are stripped? Or I would use the old ones. I do not see any reason to go under the car; sometimes I like to lift the car, so I do not need to bend over as much. If I remember correct, the pump gets pushed down by the cam. Problems occur when the cam is in the way on installation, so you can rotate the cam by turning the engine ove; they do not touch that much all the time. The socket and wrench have to be just right. I think ¼ drive socket set and maybe a small deep well socket. It has been a while since I put one on, but it will become clear as you get into it. Those new studs sound wrong. Someone will chime in with a better memory.

steve

 

[TomMull]

My local hardware carries a good supply of automotive studs and I assume most do. If I can find some a bit long they are relatively easy to shorten. Tom

 

[charleyf]

Bob,
i can tell you that the stud that protrudes out of the block is 3/4" long.
As to the installation and removal of the pump , I have found that a 1/4" socket with a 3" wobble extension works very well. I emphasize the wobble for that extension as it really helps, especially with the rear nut.
the pumps have a limiter that usually keeps the arm that rides on the cam up into the proper position. That should not be a concern unless you are dealing with a older pump that may be damaged. I will say that I have one of the older damaged pumps so they do exist.
installation and removal is done from the top side over the fender.

 

[TuffTR250]

My old original stud screws into the block 5/8 inch. The new stud would screw into the block 3/8 inch. Is the 3/8 inch into the block sufficient? Thanks!
Bob

 

[TomMull]

I would feel much more comfortable with the 5/8 thread length but I think the 3/8 would be OK. You certainly don't want them too long as the hole in the block does not go through and is about 3/4" deep.
Tom

 

[TuffTR250]

Thanks for the responses!
Bob

 

[HarryL]

Try using a half-height nyloc nut with a thin washer. It'll give you more room and allow the stud to
go into the block farther. Aircraft Spruce or Pegusus has them by the tons.
Harry