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Girling Brake Fluid Reservoirs Leaking

Fat Cat

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Hi all

Does anyone have a tip on where to get decent Girling brake fluid reservoirs for my BN7?
The ones I've ordered online keep leaking and destroying my paint. (Tried the "no leak" seals already).
It seems that most online vendors sell the same poor quality rebuilds.

Due to an upgraded two-circuit brake system I would require:
  • 1x reservoir-can with dual outlet for both brake and clutch
  • 1x reservoir with single outlet for the second brake circuit
Any feedback on where to get matching high quality reservoirs that look original and definitely don't leak is highly appreciated! :smile:

Thank you very much & best regards,
Fat Cat
 

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PAUL161

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Possibly Summit Racing. They have quite a few. PJ
 

steveg

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It's not about the reservoirs, it's about the seals. IIRC I'm using the Stat-o-seals from Pegasus, which are aluminum with a viton center. This is with DOT5.

I would call a reputable outfit like Pegasus and ask them what they recommend.

screenshot.2895.jpg


Edit: the Stat-o-seals may be iffy for non-silicone standard brake fluids. Most on the net seem to be using copper washers.
Also check the flares on the supply pipes. I ran the stainless pipes for a while and they would work-harden after a couple of tightenings and start to leak.
 
Last edited:
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Fat Cat

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Hi Steve, thanks for your reply. My reservoirs are actually not leaking at the bottom / connectors but rather splashing on the top end at the lids. Either the fluid comes through the breather-hole or through the thread of the lid. I've tried other seals already. Reached out to pegasus as recommended.
 

GregW

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My reservoirs are actually not leaking at the bottom / connectors but rather splashing on the top end at the lids. Either the fluid comes through the breather-hole or through the thread of the lid.
Have you tried the "no splash" seal that Moss sells? Part #582-505
 

Keoke

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Maybe u can wrap the threads with Plumber Teflon tape. ???
 
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Have you tried the "no splash" seal that Moss sells? Part #582-505

I have one in my BN2's reservoir--it works. But, how high are you filling your reservoir? Brake fluid gets hot, and hot fluids expand; I fill my reservoirs to just below the top of the cylindrical part of the reservoir or, for the BJ8 I fill to the top of the clutch cylinder (easier to tell if anything is leaking). Like radiators without recovery systems the system will find its own level.

Edit: I think these can be found--it's somewhat of a standard size--in the 'HELP' section of parts houses, possibly at a lower cost, or :

 
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CraigC

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Maybe u can wrap the threads with Plumber Teflon tape. ???
Although that may seem like a good idea, there is no place for Teflon tape anywhere in an automotive brake system. One little bit of that tears off during install and it will find its way into a critical orifice with potentially dangerous consequences. Along the same lines, never use it in a fuel system either.
Teflon tape is intended to be used on tapered pipe thread connections. There are none of these in the Healey fuel and brake systems.
 

Keoke

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OH MY Goodness!

This fellah ain't neva done no real plumbin ifin he did he would know little pieces of teflon tape do not come off even when joint is retightened>
 

CraigC

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OH MY Goodness!

This fellah ain't neva done no real plumbin ifin he did he would know little pieces of teflon tape do not come off even when joint is retightened>
You don't know just how wrong you are with that comment my friend. 40+ years in the automotive repair world. I have fixed more vehicles than I can count that had Teflon tape applied in improper locations, primarily fuel systems, that resulted in failures.
 

Keoke

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I werent talkin bout no vehicle we talkin bout plumbin and their Teflon tape it be tough man!.
 

vette

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Fat Cat, I’ve had a similar problem but not very severe. I have what I believe is a very good reservoir bought from Healey Surgeons in Maryland, but the cap is so tight on the threads that it doesn’t thread down far enough to compress the gasket enough and the fluid can squeeze past it. It is not much, but it is enough to see some around the top edge. Also, on very long drives, I have been able to get my fingers wet if I put them at the bottom of the can, but I know it is not the tubing fittings at the bottom because the flare nuts and tubing are never wet. The can sides will show some wetness so I know it is coming out the top. I use silicone fluid so it doesn’t even damage the paint on the can, and the weeping is so minor that the level of fluid in the can does not seem to go down. Yet the can is wet. In my case I blame the cap.

I was going to change to more modern plastic reservoirs. I bought a dual reservoir plastic set up from Summit Racing. It uses rubber hose to connect to the copper tubing. It would fit well, but because my problem is minor I never installed it. It would be clean and leak free.

You could lower the level of fluid in your reservoir to see if that helps. Remember the standing fluid above the master cylinders is the whole tubing and the can, so you really don’t need much in the can.
 
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