TR2/3/3A TR3A Girling Brake Callipers

[RonR]

There seems to be no end to my questions:

Is there a trick to the shop manual's instructions of fitting the rubber dust shield into the calliper recess and holding it in-place while the piston is inserted?

Thanks
Ron

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, but opinions vary on what it is. What I did was slide the boot partially over the piston, so the part that fits into the caliper recess was hanging off the bottom. Kind of stuff it into place, then hold the boot in the correct position while you push the piston through. As the piston bottoms, the boot will slip into the notch.

I've also heard stories of boots that don't quite fit right, so if it seems totally impossible, you may have some of those.

 

[martx-5]

The groove where the boot lip resides must be scrupulously clean, or you will have difficulty getting it in properly. The best way to clean it out is with a glass beader, but in case you don't have one of those, use one of those dental pick/scriber tools to scrape out every last vestige of rust and old boot material.

BTW, I use Randall's method, and I used to rebuild calipers for a living.

 

[MikeP]

I find it easier, if you're going to split the calipers, to use a dremel tool with a small fibreglass cutoff wheel. Run it around inside the dust seal groove a couple times and it's nice and clean and it's easy to feel when it's not rust, dirt or old rubber it's hitting. And unless you're trying to it's almost impossible to damage the cast iron of the caliper.

 

[toysrrus]

The groove where the boot lip resides must be scrupulously clean, or you will have difficulty getting it in properly. The best way to clean it out is with a glass beader, but in case you don't have one of those, use one of those dental pick/scriber tools to scrape out every last vestige of rust and old boot material.

BTW, I use Randall's method, and I used to rebuild calipers for a living.

Howdy Art,

Are you still rebuilding Calipers? I have a `57 Small Mouth with "1pcs" C.I. Calipers that will need rebuilding to like new cond. Meaning, Pistons, Seals etc.

Thanx, Russ

 

[TR3driver]

Forgot to add : The seal, piston, and inside of the boot should all be wet with brake fluid as you insert the piston.

I find it easier, if you're going to split the calipers, to use a dremel tool with a small fibreglass cutoff wheel. Run it around inside the dust seal groove a couple times and it's nice and clean and it's easy to feel when it's not rust, dirt or old rubber it's hitting. And unless you're trying to it's almost impossible to damage the cast iron of the caliper.

You must be talking about a different tool than I am thinking of. A wire brush might be OK, but I sure wouldn't use a cutoff wheel. Just touching the surface is going to remove .010" or more.

Besides, my calipers are the earlier one piece variety, so splitting them is not an option.

 

[martx-5]

... and I <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 12pt">used to</span></span> rebuild calipers for a living.

Howdy Art,

Are you still rebuilding Calipers? ... Russ

You'll notice that I said I "used to" rebuild calipers. Sorry I can't help you with that.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I have been able to get the boots on by introducing some low pressure air into the caliper with the opposite piston hole blocked and the piston to be inserted perched on top of the boot. The air inflates the boot a bit and pushes it up, any spreading of the boot around the piston cause it to pop up and around to where the piston can then be pressed home (air off). Hard to describe but when you get the knack of it the process only takes a couple of seconds and really calls for a "TA DA!" at the end.