Problems with Girling master cylinder

[hama61]

Hello,

As the brakes of the BN 4 were frozen. I had repaired the drum brakes and taken off the master cylinder as well nd replaced all the rubber parts as well. When this cylinder was taken of I noticed, that unsrewing the brake pipes were not that easy. When puting them back again unfortunately up to now i didn't manage to screw the brakepipe to the cylinder again as it simply doesn't goes in completely. To me the thread doesn't seem that bad ( see pictures)

Who has experienced a similair problem before and how did you solve this problem.

Harry

 

[HealeyRick]

A lot of times it's a problem with not getting the male fitting in squarely. The brake tube tends to pull it at an angle and you'll never get it in correctly. Try pushing the fitting up on the tube a bit so there's some free play. Insert the tube into the m/c and then try screwing the fitting in, being really careful the fitting is square to the m/c threads.

 

[CraigC]

Harry, in looking at your second pic, I see something that can lead to the problem you are having. There is a noticeable ridge or "flare" at the end of the unthreaded portion of the line nut. That end should be a smooth cylindrical shape. I recommend taking a small fine file and cleaning up the end being careful not to touch the flare on the line itself. Also, if the nut doesn't turn freely on the line, a little WD-40 between the two and some time spent working the nut around should help. Lastly, loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts several turns. This allows the cylinder to be manipulated in all directions to aid in alignment of the port and the brake line. When the line is mostly screwed in, tighten the cylinder and finish tightening the line. A line wrench, aka"flare nut wrench", is the correct tool for use on brake lines and will not damage the hex.

 

[Keoke]

Hello,

As the brakes of the BN 4 were frozen. I had repaired the drum brakes and taken off the master cylinder as well nd replaced all the rubber parts as well. When this cylinder was taken of I noticed, that unsrewing the brake pipes were not that easy. When puting them back again unfortunately up to now i didn't manage to screw the brakepipe to the cylinder again as it simply doesn't goes in completely. To me the thread doesn't seem that bad ( see pictures)

Who has experienced a similair problem before and how did you solve this problem.

Harry

HI It seems that your brake pipe is not squared with the cylinder's threaded bore.

I generally do not put a wrench on the brake pipe nut until i can screw it in to the cylinder's threaded bore by hand

Addirtionally, I do not bolt the cylinder in place until i fit the brake pipes to the cylinder by hand

 

[hama61]

Gentleman,

With all the advice given I tried once again to install the break pipe unfortunately without success. When taken the cylinder of the first 3 threads by hand are okay but than you have to use force. Have taken the cylinder of and noticed, that some threads below are damaged.

What is advisable to buy the same Girling cylinder if I can find one or an aftermarket replacement ?

Harry

 

[HealeyRick]

I've been very pleased with the genuine Girling m/cs from here: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3502 I can't imagine shipping would be that much.

 

[hama61]

update

As the first threads of the cylinder were fine it was possible to tap new threads inside the cylinder.

@ HealeyRick thanks for the link, if this didn't work I would have ordered the genuine Girling cylinder @ pegasusautoracing

 

[John Turney]

You are using 3/8-24 threads and not metric threads, right?

 

[hama61]

Hello John,

We have used the correct tap not (the metric, which is common here) The problem was that the first two/three threads of the cylinder were fine. After taking of it appeared that thread 4/5/6 were partly gone enough to make me decide not to use to much force. After retapping it screwed in by hand as described before and after fit it thight with a flare nut wrench

Harry