TR6 clutch whistle noise - 74 tr6

[electric]

To all:
I have a 74 TR6 and the previous owner (PO) changed out the clutch, which model he put in, is a guess, when I push the clutch in at the start I hear a whistle, as I keep pushing in the clutch it disappears, when I release the clutch the whistle appears just as I am taking my foot off of the pedal.
Any thoughts on this.
This forum has been a life saver, thanks for all the info that has been witten.

 

[RonMacPherson]

You are describing classic throw out bearing noise.

 

[Guest]

I concur. Lots of fun to change.

 

[DougF]

So Elvis was wrong in Viva Las Vegas. The TR4 wasn't whistling AT Ann-Margaret, it was just a throw out bearing.

 

[2wrench]

I've got a new throw out bearing. One came with all my
anticipated engine rebuild parts; then another was
purchased and installed for me by the mechanic I had
rebuild my tranny. It is for a '74 TR6. I'd be
thinking to send it back to British Parts Northwest
for a refund. Let me know if you might be interested.

 

[AltaKnight]

Hi "Electric"
Where in Alberta are you located?

 

[Brosky]

Here's what you need to take apart.

https://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm

Good luck.

 

[MadRiver]

I've been thinking a great deal about this issue, especially since the TOB on my TR-250 is rubbing against the pressure plate about 100 miles after a clutch change (not done by me, so I have no idea what manufacturers were involved). My father suggested something that I hadn't thought about. He said that while we all seem to focus on the alignment bolts when re-assembling the bell housing to the engine, he suggested another area of potential alignment problems. Specifically, he asked whether I had ever looked at the bushings through which the clutch rod passes through the bell housing, and whether these had worn out or ever been refreshed over 40 years. He suggested that I crawl under the car, unhook the clevis pin that connects the slave cylinder pushrod from the clutch rod, and see how much play I have.

I did this, and lo and behold, I discovered that there's a great deal of play. I had the car running, and the TOB and scraping against the pressure plate, and then I wiggled the clutch rod in the worn bearings, and the noise went away. My old man suggested that when I depress the clutch slightly, the noice disappears because I'm essentially recentering the TOB, which moves around a bit because of the worn bushings.

Given that my TOB meets pressure plate noise disappears when the engine gets warm, perhaps the slight expansion of the bearings and rod due to heat is enough to keep the rod from moving around.

Just a new factor to add to the regular discussions of these things.

B.

 

[TR3driver]

He suggested that I crawl under the car, unhook the clevis pin that connects the slave cylinder pushrod from the clutch rod, and see how much play I have.

I did this, and lo and behold, I discovered that there's a great deal of play. I had the car running, and the TOB and scraping against the pressure plate, and then I wiggled the clutch rod in the worn bearings, and the noise went away.

Interesting thought, Bill ! Never occurred to me to wonder about that, since I almost always replace those bushings (and the shaft if it's badly worn).

I also don't like the narrow steel bushings used by the factory on the (later ?) TR6 and Stag, so I replaced mine with the wide brass bushings used on the TR2-4. Plus added grease zerks so they can be lubricated occasionally.

 

[vettedog72]

I agree with all the other posters, that the most likely orgin of the noise is the TOB. I think you need to enjoy driving and not become concerned about any repairs unless thaere is a change (more, louder)noise.